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Kukuribakama Trousers (Bugaku costume), Interlocking floral roundels design on blue ground

Muromachi period, 15th century

Tokyo National Museum

Tokyo National Museum
Tokyo, Japan

Using light blue silk thread for the warp and yellow as the weft, the brocade design of this piece is woven over twill ground. On the lining of the back of the waist is an inscription which suggests that this garment was a costume for the Komagaku-style bugaku. A ryoto vest made from brocade with the same design appears in volume 4 of Ancient Instruments and Costumes for Performances, which presumably formed a set with this work although the actual vest does not remain.

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  • Title: Kukuribakama Trousers (Bugaku costume), Interlocking floral roundels design on blue ground
  • Date Created: Muromachi period, 15th century
  • Provenance(Japanese): 高野山天野社伝来
  • Provenance: Formerly preserved at Amano-sha, Mount Koya
  • Owner(Japanese): 文化庁
  • Owner: The Agency for Cultural Affairs
  • Object Title: 括袴 縹地花輪違模様
  • Object Notes(Japanese): 経(たて)糸に縹(はなだ)色、緯(ぬき)糸に黄色の絹糸を用いた綾地緯錦である。後腰裏に「右三」と墨書が残っており右方(高麗楽)の装束であったことがうかがえる。現存はしないが『古器及楽装束図』巻4に同じ模様の錦を用いた裲襠(りょうとう)が描かれ、元は同じ1組の装束だったと考えられる。
  • Object Date: 室町時代・15世紀
  • Medium(Japanese): 倭錦
  • Type: Textile
Tokyo National Museum

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