Short jump suit

In the 1960s Paco Rabanne revolutionized the fashion world and shook the foundations of Paris Haute Couture. In 1966 he presented his first manifesto collection, entitled '12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials'. These dresses were made of materials not normally used in fashion, such as aluminium, steel and plastic, very different from conventional fibres and fabrics. Chanel said he was not so much a fashion designer as a metalworker. The collection stirred up a controversy that went beyond fashion circles.

This outfit transcends the materials, pattern-cutting and making-up techniques that had gone before. Alternating black and white plastic discs are arranged in strips or rows. Each disc has five holes, two above and two below, through which four steel rings pass. This construction system determines the form of the outfit. The strips are wider at the centre of the body and narrower at the top and bottom. The breasts are covered by two triangles, which join at the nape of the neck. The outfit flares out slightly below the waist as the construction becomes more complex to create the trousers. While the form may be comfortable thanks to its loose fit, the materials used are far from soft.

This conceptual dress from the first stage of Paco Rabanne's career made metallic chains — evoking the mediaeval knight's armour or chain mail — fashionable. This outfit is an always recognizable icon of fashion history, and has been reinterpreted by its designer on several occasions. Rabanne's motto is 'Don't seduce; surprise'. Along with André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin, he revolutionized the way we think about fashion, creating a futuristic and timeless style that won favour with the most daring actresses and singers.