There are two methods of flower manufacture: zouka (“artificial flowers”) and tsumami (“pinching”). Here, we will look at the tsumami method (also known as tsumami saiku or tsumami craft). We will follow the tsumami process that produces the flowers that make up the hairpin. The tsumami process for hairpins uses habutae fine silk. This is thin silk, slightly lighter than that used for kimono. In recent years, it has apparently become difficult to obtain habutae and other traditional tools and materials such as starch. As a result, it is said to be a struggle to give the hairpins the same finish as in the past.
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