It Happened in '76
A year of contrasts: Enter a moment of change, confidence, and taking charge for Vogue's modern woman
By Condé Nast Archive
By Ivan Shaw
Lisa Taylor in a Fur Coat and Bikini, Vogue (1976-12-01) by Chris von WangenheimCondé Nast Archive
Through it all, America found time to celebrate its bicentennial and Vogue laid out its vision of a new, very different, modern woman.
In New York, the Ramones released their first record. In California, Steve Jobs and Steven Wozniak founded Apple. In sports, the country celebrated Dorothy Hamill’s gold at the Winter Olympics, and then, in the summer, Bruce Jenner’s decathlon win. On a darker note, the serial killer, David Berkowitz, calling himself the "Son of Sam” began his homicidal rampage and Gary Gilmore was arrested for armed robbery and sentenced to death, spawning Norman Mailer’s Pulitzer Prize–winning The Executioner’s Song.
Raingear, Vogue (1976-08-01) by Jacques MalignonCondé Nast Archive
In its January kick-off issue
The magazine told its readers to take control of their lives, writing: “What, in 1976, is going to send us to the head of our class? Action, we hope. Refusing to sit around and wait for someone else to do for us whatever we believe has got to get done.”
By 1976, the happy-go-lucky enthusiasm and vibrant palettes of sixties-era fashion had been replaced with a more serious, wearable fashion enlivened by a style of photography that could be edgy to the point of feeling dangerous.
Photographers such as Chris von Wangenheim and Albert Watson made steady use of strobe lights on location to invoke a sense of disco-infused glamour even on the sunniest of days.
Melanie Cain Performing "Da Vinci" Aerobic Exercises at California's Golden Door Spa, Vogue (1976-04-01) by Jacques MalignonCondé Nast Archive
The party could start at any time
The age of the wallflower was over and women were getting serious, even on the dance floor.
Melanie Cain Performing "Da Vinci" Aerobic Exercises at California's Golden Door Spa, Vogue (1976-04-01) by Jacques MalignonCondé Nast Archive
Arthur Elgort and Duane Michals (later to become an important artistic photographer) still relied on the wonder of natural light but shaped it in ways that made one feel that the sun was fueling a new sense of empowerment for women.
Pat Cleveland in a Kimono Shirt and Sarong, Vogue (1976-05-01) by Jacques MalignonCondé Nast Archive
The modern Vogue woman had the world in her hands, even if she was just running on the beach.
This sense of confidence was expressed by a new generation of models as well, like Patti Hansen, Lisa Taylor, and Rene Russo. All physically strong women who were not at all intimidated by the camera or afraid to sport the tiniest of bikinis.
Things were happening on the diversity front as well. Vogue continued to feature Beverly Johnson (its first African American cover girl) as well as casting Pat Cleveland and Iman in numerous stories.
Models in John Anthony Ensembles, Vogue (1976-09-01) by Duane MichalsCondé Nast Archive
It was these models who illustrated “the look American women invented” as Vogue declared in its July issue—a look built on sportswear separates; a style that radiated success.
So much was changing 200 years since that day in July when a country was born, and some 80 years since the birth of Vogue. Women were taking control of their lives, inhibitions were being cast aside, boardroom doors swung open—and Vogue was there to help guide the way.
