The Creamy Sweetness of Fukuoka’s Toyomitsuhime Figs

Not only are figs deliciously sweet with a thick and creamy texture: they are so packed full of nutritious goodness that they are considered the ‘fruit of longevity’. In Japan, figs have recently seen a rise in popularity thanks to their rich dietary fiber content and the skin-beautifying and anti-aging benefits it brings.

In Japanese, ichijiku (fig) can be written as 無花果 (literally, ‘no + flower + fruit’), denoting the fact that the flowers of a fig tree cannot be seen as they grow inside the ‘fruit’. Figs are known for their unique, slightly lumpy texture; this is actually the flower. While they could be said to be a familiar fruit, they are also somewhat obscure at the same time. To learn more about the fascinating fig, a trip to Fukuoka Prefecture is in order.

Born in the ‘Home of water’

The warm climate and fertile soil of Fukuoka Prefecture in Kyushu make it a thriving fruit-growing region. It is Japan’s third-largest producer of figs, with the main varieties being the Horaishi, the Masui Dauphine, and the Fukuoka born and bred Toyomitsuhime.

The city of Asakura, located in the heart of the prefecture, grows more Toyomitsuhime than anywhere else in Fukuoka. The Chikugo Plain where Asakura lies is watered by the Chikugo River. The abundance of clean water in this so-called ‘home of water’ and wide temperature differences courtesy of the surrounding mountains, together with long yearly daylight hours, makes for prime fig-growing country.

The Toyomitsuhime is an original cultivar created in 2006 after many years of development at the Fukuoka Agricultural Research Center Buzen Branch located in Yukuhashi City. The name of the fig is actually an amalgam of three words. ‘Toyo’ comes from the character 豊, which is the first part of the name of the agricultural research center branch (Buzen). ‘Mitsu’ means ‘honey’ in Japanese and refers to the fig’s honey-sweet taste. Finally, ‘hime’ (princess) comes from the oval shape and reddish-violet color, giving this fig quite a dainty appearance. The Toyomitsuhime has a sugar content level of around 17-20, placing it up with melons and grapes in terms of sweetness. It is also noted for its thin, delicate skin.

Cold chain management: the key to maintaining freshness

As he prepares for the harvesting of the Toyomitsuhime in August, Asakura City Toyomitsuhime grower and Chairman of the JA (Japan Agricultural Co-operative) Chikuzen Asakura Toyomitsuhime Committee, Tamenobu Uchida, speaks about this attractive fig.

“Harvesting starts around May for greenhouse-grown figs, but it goes from about August to late November for those cultivated in the open. During that period, I’ll get up at 4:30AM, strap on a headlight, and head out into the orchard. I pick the figs when it is still cool in the early morning. From that point, we utilize a cold chain system which allows for the figs to be kept below 15 degrees Celsius from selection to packing, and all the way to the store shelves. This ensures their freshness.”

Most of the Toyomitsuhime that do not make the required grade at the sorting facility are used for processed goods such as sweets or jams. This helps reduce waste. “The jam we make at JA Chikuzen Asakura uses less sugar than usual jams; we try and rely only on the simple sweetness that come from the figs.”

Special attention given to fluffy soil

The Toyomitsuhime is grown in a way that differs from many other figs. “Other varieties will use an upright trellis training system, but for the Toyomitsuhime, we use what we call the ‘ichimonji’ method. This is where we train two main branches from a single tree in two opposite directions, then have branches that come up vertically at regular intervals along these two main branches, making it look much like a fence. The best part about this method is that it makes pruning easier and as the trees grow low, managing them is easier and your working posture is better,” explains Uchida, who hopes to keep growing and harvesting his figs into old age.

Once harvest season is over and the leaves begin to fall, the branches are pruned back. It is then time for the trees to be covered in sheets to protect them from the cold and frost damage. "Figs are vulnerable to cold, and if they are exposed to frost, the thin layer of bark on their trunks will be damaged and become rough. If you don’t have a strong tree to start with, you can’t produce nice fruit. That’s why they need to be properly protected from the cold through to the following spring.”

The January-March period is the time for working on the part of fig-growing Uchida is most particular about: soil making. “Getting the soil to be light and fluffy is key. It helps root systems to more easily grow and absorb nutrients. The way we do it here is by mixing in the ashes and charcoal from wood smoking chips. We also get waste from a meat processing plant and put that into the soil, too.”

Uchida also uses an original compost mix that incorporates mushroom culture medium, wood waste, malt, and bran. “I didn’t really want to fatten up my figs with chemical fertilizers. It takes a lot of work to grow them like I do, but I want people to eat the figs with peace of mind.”

From spring to summer, debudding, where excess buds are removed, and training of branches into a straight line takes place. These are indispensable tasks for ensuring nutrients are concentrated in the fruit. During the rainy season in June, diseases such as leaf blight and rust need to be kept in check; disinfection is performed when required. While all this is taking place, the fruit is starting to form. The tiny green bulbs, about the size of an azuki bean, will be fully ripe figs in around 90 days.

“I always keep in mind the old proverb my father used to say to me: ‘The footsteps of the farmer are his best fertilizer’. The more you take yourself into the field, the more love and attention you give your crop, the better figs you can make.”

Spreading the word about the creamy, sweet, and flavorful Toyomitsuhime

As the figs ripen, they become a reddish color, one by one over time on the branches. A popular story about how the fig got its name in Japan stems from this ripening process: ‘ichijiku’ may be a mispronunciation of ichijuku (literally, ‘a single one ripens’). When you bite into a fig that is fully ripe and ready for eating, your mouth is immediately filled with thick juice, richly sweet with just the right amount of sourness.

“The ones that are reddish-purple with a bit of firmness — like the feeling when you lightly squeeze your earlobe — are the most delicious. The skin on the Toyomitsuhime is really thin, so I personally like just to bite into them, skin and all.” Uchida also recommends freezing the figs in summer and eating them like a sherbet.

“There are so many people who don’t know how figs are grown or how they produce fruit. That’s why I would firstly like for more people to become familiar with them. In order to accomplish this, I am hoping they can first get to know the appeal of the Toyomitsuhime.” Uchida explains that as the variety is only grown in Fukuoka and has a limited production volume, it is not widely available on the market. However, there is a focus on expanding sales channels in future.

“The best way to convey the taste is of course to have people eat it! When we set up sampling stations at supermarkets and the like, it doesn’t just end with a customer tasting it, mumbling a ‘Hmm...,’ and then walking away. Even people who weren’t interested in figs previously will take a bite and say, ‘I’ve never eaten a fig that’s sweet like this! I’ll take a pack!’ The grower can’t lie: the proof’s in the eating! I hope that everyone someday can get a taste of the Toyomitsuhime.”