The Great Serai

The Great Serai is an outstanding example of a traditional Kabuli residence located in Murad Khani, the only surviving contiguous historic quarter in Kabul. Traces of original ornamental plasterwork reveal that construction of this complex began in the late 19th century with phased expansion occurring into the early decades of the 20th century.

More recently, the increasingly degraded structure found use as a commercial warehouse and temporary accommodation for traders. Throughout a long period of instability in Afghanistan, warfare, neglect, and looting left a legacy of significant damage to the structure and fabric of the building.

The Great Serai is inward-looking in form and layout. It is constructed so as to increase privacy for the family unit, to ensure seclusion from the public realm, to enhance security for the occupants and to moderate the harsh summer and winter climate of the region.

Built using locally available timber, earth, and stone, the Serai expresses a material modesty that is entirely appropriate to its domestic function and the character of the neighbouring properties. However, with an internal area of approximately 1500 square metres, the structure’s size and the quality of the original ornamentation - not to mention the extravagant inclusion of two hammam wash rooms - convey a grandeur and aspiration beyond the means of most surrounding householders. In light of this, the Great Serai can be considered as historically and culturally valuable, not only to the residents of Murad Khani, but also within the register of Afghanistan’s remaining built heritage.