12 Stages of Making a Dress With a Fashion Student Manuella Numfor

A passionate student

Manuella is passionate about fashion and is massively inspired by Karl Lagerfeld. "Passion is my purpose and I draw fulfilment from it."

"I am creative and want to do my own thing. I don't want to copy other designers even if I am influenced by them. I am the first Manuella Numfor, not the next Coco Chanel."

Step 1: Research

This is an inspiration board made by Manuella. For this project, she was inspired by the Surma Tribe in Ethiopia, who have a strong cultural heritage.

Step 2: Idea development

Idea development is a long process. It took Manuella almost a month to research, sketch and come up with the concepts for her design.

Step 3: Design concept

Creativity and originality is such an important aspect of Manuella's work. This, in fact, inspired her to get into fashion, along with her relentless pursuit of perfection and attention to detail.

A close-up of Manuella Numfor's final sketch.

Step 4: Pattern-making

Pattern-making is the next step of the design process. The pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut and assembled.

Step 5: Final pattern

The tracing wheel is an important tool in the pattern-making process. It is used to transfer markings from the pattern to the fabric and can also be used to transfer entire patterns as well.

Step 6: Cutting the pattern

The pattern is then cut according to the model's measurements. This is especially important in bespoke tailoring as the clothes are made specifically for a particular model. The patterns are then used to cut the toile fabric.

Step 7: Making the toile

The toile is an early version of a finished garment. It is the "draft" of the final design. It is usually made of cheap material (usually cloth or canvas) so that the design can be tested and perfected before the final fabric is made.

A close up of the cutting process. The fabric is cut according to the patterns which had been drafted earlier in the process.

Step 8: Sewing the toile

After all the fabric is cut according to the patterns, the toile is stitched. The process of toile making took Manuella about a week to complete.

Step 9: The fitting

After the toile fabric is stitched, it is fitted on the client so that the design can be tested and perfected before the final fabric is cut.

Step 10: Choosing the fabric

The fabric Manuella used for the ribbon and sash is satin. The skirt is made of brocade, from the Italian word broccato meaning "embossed cloth".

Step 11: Making the final garment

The toile has been fitted on the model and the necessary adjustments (if any) have been made in new patterns. The next step in the process is cutting of the fashion fabric before it is stitched.

Step 12: Draping and styling

Manuella applies the final touches to the dress as she drapes the sash over a mannequin, keeping a keen eye on things.

Voila!

The beautiful evening dress is ready.