By Kyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory
Kyoto Women's University, Lifestyle Design Laboratory
The birth of food replicas
During the early Taishō Era (1910s), techniques for creating replicas of things evolved partly due to the lag of photographic techniques in Japan at the time. It was under such circumstances that health food moulds used by institutes of health sciences and other health related organizations was born. The first food mould in Japan is said to have been made by Shimadzu Coporation.
The making of replicas in early Taishō Era
Agar jelly was applied over actual food items to create a mould, into which paraffin wax would then be poured. Washi paper or cotton lining was also placed at this stage to reinforce the mould. Finally, coloured was applied for finish. While it was common to make moulds out of gypsum, for food items agar was preferred for creating the mould.
Display at department
eateries
1923 (Taishō 12), Shirokiya was the first to open an eatery at a department store, while displaying sample dishes and drinks and implementing the food ticketing system that is commonplace in Japan today. As a result of these implementations, turnover of customers improved, sales increased four times than previously, and erroneous bills also decreased. The use of wax replicas was groundbreaking, as it meant no more problems such as discolouration, rotting and attracting flies that came with using real food.
Towards commercialization
1932 (Shōwa 7), Shokuhin Mokei Iwasaki Seisakusho (Food Moulds Iwasaki Manufacturing) was established at Oimatsu-chō in Kita Ward of Osaka. When its founder, Iwasaki Takizō, saw the food moulds he knew right away that he was looking at something made of wax because they reminded him of his childhood when he would immerse himself in playing with hot wax by dripping it into water and watching it spread like blooming flowers. Seeing that these replica foods were still not being commercialized, Iwasaki decided to commercialize them and make them popular all over Japan.
Business model during the
early Shōwa Era
Due to the vulnerability of the wax to heat and direct sunlight which led to deformation, discolouring and other problems, wax food replicas were not sold, but offered for rent. The cost of a month’s rent was ten times that of the actual food item, thus opening up a new business channel.
During the war
With the lack of commodities available and daily life affected by poverty, demands for food replicas diminished, while paraffin wax – the raw material for making food replicas – was now necessary for making gunpowder and dynamites and no longer easily obtainable. In 1943 (Shōwa 18) the Osaka prefecture decreed that it was an act of swindle for eateries to display food replicas if they did not offered rice, thereby prohibiting all displaying of food replicas. With the making of food replicas coming to a dead end, manufacturing and sales now turned to replica funerary items for the war dead.
The making of replicas
during the war
First, diatomaceous earth and gloiopelis glue were mixed, applied over a gymsum mould and hardened. Once hard, it is then placed over a metal mesh and rapid dried using gas. Wax is then blown onto the semifinished product using a compressor. This method made it possible to save up to 0.05% of the paraffin wax conventionally required.
Business
expansion
With peace returning as the war ended, eateries around Japan reopened and food replica business began expanding. In addition, as western food (which until then was not available to the Japanese) becoming popular, food replicas also became important items as they allowed for the visual representation of dishes that the Japanese had no clue what they were simply by looking at their names.
Great reform
As Japan became a developed country in the 1970s and with the rapid development in electrical appliances, showcases with lights installed in them gradually became used at eateries. However, the high temperatures inside the showcases caused light and heat-sensitive wax food replicas to melt. At the same time, global warming also meant that these replicas would melt even at room temperature. It was for this reason that food replica manufacturers began conducting research and developed food replicas that we know today with high durability and do not melt, using PVC, silicon, resin and other chemical resins.
The
making of food replicas after the 1970’s
Silicon is poured over the actual item to create a mould. Dyed chemical resin is then poured into the mould and heated in a special oven. After heating, the replica is then airbrushed to add colours to it.
The birth of the representation
of an instant
With food replicas transforming from simple food samples to a tool for promoting sales, they now need to look not only realistic, but also delicious. The change from wax to a rich variety of chemical resins as raw material has made it possible to replicate the hardness, texture and a wide range of ways to represent food items.
A period of stagnation
After the burst of the bubble economy, printing technologies improved, making it cheaper to print posters, pamphlets and menus, thus leading to the decrease in the demand for food replicas that are expensive and bulky. Meanwhile, the emergence of 3D printers promising precise reproduction of minute details forced many food replica manufacturers that also made models for medical use out of business, thus reducing the roughly 200 manufacturers in 1980s down to about 100 in 2020.
Increase in tourists /
demand for merchandise
The number of foreign visitors to Japan soared as a result of the easing of visa requirements in the 2010’s. This meant that food replicas that are easy to understand visually were more important than written/printed menus. On the other hand, by selling food replicas as souvenirs or merchandise to the general public, sales at food replica manufacturer Design Pocket has increased about 1.5 times.
Transitions in the
generations of artisans
In the long-established world of food replicas, apprenticeship had been the mainstream way of work. During the period of production stagnation, however, artisans could not afford to train apprentices, leading thus to the great decrease in the number of young people who could take over the craft and resulting in ageing artisans with no one to pass the craft to. To remedy this problem, Kurahashi Sachiko founded the Design Pocket Food Replica Creators School in 2012 in a bid to train independent artisans by not only teaching them how to make food replicas, but also business management.
The future of food replicas
It is perceived that food replicas overseas will likely be introduced and promoted overseas. Currently, there are many places overseas where real food is put on display in showcases. However, with concerns over food waste and the coronavirus pandemic, more and more people are shying away from such places, prompting an increasing number of places to consider replacing real food with replicas. Perhaps food replicas that found its place in society and became commonly known throughout Japan over the past century may one day enjoy fame overseas as it continues to transform with the times.
Information provided by:
Kurahashi Sachiko,Food replica manufacturer Design Pocket
Supported by:
Food replica manufacturer Design Pocket
Food replica online shop by Design Pocket
Reference:
Nose Yasunobu,眼で食べる日本人:食品サンプルはこうして生まれた,Japan, Asahiya publishing,2002
Iwasaki Takizo, Takada Eitaro,蝋の花:食品模型王・岩崎瀧三伝, Japan, Iwasaki,1982
Text written by:
Iwasaki Kanae
Exhibition created by:
Iwasaki Kanae
Photo by:
Dr. Shinya Maezaki, Professor, Kyoto Women's University
English translation by:
Eddy Y.L. Chang
Photographing Cooperation
Food replica manufacturer Design Pocket
FOREST GREEN PASTA & BAKE by ROCCA & FRIENDS