Cha'To Chaak: Ceremonial gastronomy

The state of Quintana Roo is recognized worldwide for its beautiful white sand beaches and turquoise blue sea. Inland, mainly in the center of the region, are the descendants of the battle-hardened Mayan rebels of the liberation movement of 1847.

They still retain among their traditional practices various traditional ceremonies of ancestral origin that they have been recreating from generation to generation to date, among them the "Cha'a Chaak" or "Request for Rain" stands out, which is one of the most sacred ceremonies for its degree of complexity, that are made around the Mayan cornfield.

The ch'a cháak is a ceremony linked to the agricultural cycle and it requires participation as the principle guide of a J-meen or Mayan priest, who possesses the knowledge and gifts to preside over it.

This ceremony of request for rain is mainly carried out in the period of time when rain is really required, because this is when the cornfields are starting to sprout.

The J-meen invokes an entire constellation of Yumtsiloob or agricultural-related Mayan gods such as the Yum Chaakoob or Lords of the Rain, Yum Báalam or Lord Guardians, Yum Kanan K'ánkaboob or Lord Protective Guardians of the fertile lands, Yum Iik'oob or Lord of the Winds, Oxlajem'uj or Trece-Deidad, Bolontik´uj or New Deity and Ki´ichkelem Yuum or Sacred Beautiful Lord.

To carry out this ceremony, the participating community organizes, assigns tasks and provides the necessary inputs and utensils for the preparation of the foods that will serve as an offering, such as chickens, corn masa dough, ground seeds, salt, condiments, firewood, frying pans, pots, platters, spoons, gourds, candles, among others.

The materials and tools for building the necessary infrastructure are also set out such as the Noj K'aanché or Táasché K'uj or high altar and the"Píib", a traditional oven where the food is cooked underground.

The ceremony is divided into the following stages: Organization, definition of sacred spaces, preparation of symbolic elements, assembly of infrastructure, preparation of food and drinks, assembly of the altar and offering the offering, dismantling of offerings, distribution of food, and finally the liberation of sacred spaces.

Only men, boys, male teenagers and male adults may participate in this ceremony marked by sacred spaces.

 Women are not allowed to participate. They are limited to staying in the kitchen area performing tasks such as cleaning and parboiling birds, preparing condiments and atole de maza (maza drink) or k'ool, among other tasks.

During Cha'a Chaak a series of traditional dishes are prepared, among them noj waj. It is prepared by stacking nine masa dough tortillas one on top of the other. A thin layer of ground seeds is placed between each layer of masa dough. They are the first to be made.

Once the nine layers of masa dough have been formed, on top of the last one small holes (eyes) or a cross filled with ground seeds is made and splashed with the Balché (ceremonial drink). They are covered or wrapped with a bóob or huano (palm) leaf and are ready for the traditional oven. From these breads, 5, 9 or 13 pieces are made as instructed by the J-meen.

Another main food of the ceremony is the tuuti waj. It is prepared in the same way as the noj waj, the only difference being that no eyes are added and it is not marked with the cross. There are also nooxob waj or "bread wedges" that are made by stirring corn masa dough with a little ground seed.

During the Cha'a Chaak, Sak já is also prepared, a ceremonial drink that is made by parboiling selected white corn, which once cooked is washed well and ground obtaining the masa dough to prepare the drink by diluting it in water, and in some cases sweetening it with honey from the xuunan kabor melipona bee.

Another traditional drink is the Balché. To make it, for three days the bark of the tree of the same name is soaked in honey-water from the bee to ferment. It is then strained to remove waste and to be ready for the ceremony.

The ceremony includes other dishes such as Waajil X-yáach' or bread for soup. Normal tamales made with masa dough mixed with ground seed, once they have been cooked in the pib (underground oven), they are shredded to powder and used to prepare the ceremonial soup known as X-náabal, X-Chok'oob or Ya'ach'.

The making of the ceremonial soup begins with the k'ool. It is a broth or atole of thinned corn dough, to which is added diluted ground achiote, onion slices, oregano leaves, salt, and ground pepper. It is cooked in a large pot or pan on the stove, moving it continuously to prevent it from sticking.

The whole chickens, already well cleaned and washed, are immersed in a broth seasoned with diluted achiote paste, garlic cloves, cloves, Tabasco pepper and salt, to cook over continuous heat. After being offered at the altar, they will be separated into pieces and served with the k'ool.

Finally, the livers and sweetbreads of the birds that have been butchered are chopped along with leaves of green onion, onions, ground pepper, and salt to taste. It is wrapped in white fabric and is cooked together with the chickens. Already cooked it is added to the soup. 

The practice of Cha'a Chaak has been slowly diminished for several reasons, such as abandonment of the countryside through migration, new religions, generational gap, automation, global market. In spite of this, the Mayan communities of Quintana Roo keep the tradition alive.