The street kitchens of Puebla

In cities such as Puebla and Mexico City, street kitchens provide food to the passer-by as well as to homes. Thus, for centuries the sale of dozens of handmade tortillas, gorditas (pancakes), tlacoyos (tortillas), tamales and atole (drink) has lasted.

Crunchy and abundant buñuelos (fritters) invaded viceroyal streets and independent Mexico's streets. They were inspired by the delicious sugary fritters of the women's convents, but incorporated ingredients such as brown sugar, guava, aniseed, cinnamon and hawthorn.

Fresh water can be traced back to the early years of New Spain's viceroyalty. They drank under the gateways of the public squares, in the company of guisos (stews) and antojitos (street food) from other stalls.

Little or nothing has changed the chalupas (crunchy tortillas) since their early appearance in the 19th century Puebla recipe books. Their name comes from the French chaloupe, a ship whose shape seems to have inspired this popular oil-fried Puebla antojito (street food) prepared with a corn tortilla, salsa verde or salsa roja, shredded meat and chopped onion.

Puebla's sweets originated in the neo-Hispanic women's convents, where small societies and ethnicities found a common place in the kitchens. So what would later become Mexico's national sweet first drank from Andalusian and Arab sources before incorporating Central-American ingredients and launching themselves to conquer the streets and palates of the whole country.

Spanish soldiers and commentators observed women preparing and serving stews in the Central-American markets. In the centuries of New Spain this tradition continued in the hands of reliable and lively stews, which fed pedestrians and populated practically every corner of cities like Puebla and Mexico City.

Boiled and threshed elotes (street corn) has been present since the ancient Tenochtitlan. It has only changed the seasonings, which today includes mayonnaise or cream, chili, lemon and cheese.

The history of tamales is lost in the mists of times. The word means wrapping and this can be done using a large number of holders such as the leaves of the corn and those of other plants such as Indian shot and plantain, which arrived from Asia through Africa. Tamales may or may not contain corn masa dough and are now filled with fish, chili, meat, cheese or whatever is on hand.

Tacos appeared on the streets during the 20th century during armed movements in Mexico, when food was required to become more practical and portable. Over time, tacos became the favorite and most iconic popular food for Mexicans.

For centuries, Mexican street food has nourished the bodies and spirits of all social classes, which find it irresistible and full of identity.

In street kitchens, the use of old utensils such as the comal (griddle), portable stove, presses and molcajetes (mortars).

Over time, antojitos (street food) such as the popular Puebla cemitas bread, of humble origin but full of flavor and satisfaction, incorporated more and more ingredients, to suit everyone's taste.

The presence of tlacoyos (corn time fryed filled with ingredients as bean, haba or cheese) and gorditas (another kind of corn time filled with stewed) has been documented since the 16th century in the work of Fray Bernardino de Sahagún. It can be said that only the way to garnish them has changed, with ingredients coming from Europe and Africa.

According to sources, the original name for chocolate was cacao. The word was changed after the conquest, probably so that it would sound better and be more attractive.

During the 16th century Fray Bernardino de Sahagún reported a huge variety of tortillas with different thicknesses, colors, size and uses. Many of them continue today in the everyday and ritual with just a few changes.

At first, European wheat bread was an invasive food. Time and mixing would over time give it a place equal to that of the tortilla at the national tables. In Mexico, there is no one who resists the temptation to eat good bread even outside the house.