Seven-and-a-half Minutes to Another World

The continuous ridgelines connecting the steep mountains. The crisp, clean air. The colorful alpine flora. Every year, people use the physical and mental strength they have cultivated for the climb up these peaks into a beautiful world atop the clouds. However, the lofty heights of Kiso-Komagatake are not a sanctuary reserved only for mountain hikers.

The Komagatake Recreation Forest, located at Mt. Kiso-Komagatake in Japan’s Central Alps, is a quasi-national park that offers visitors stunning mountainous scenery and a myriad of alpine plants to admire. Here, you will also find the Komagatake Ropeway, one that boasts Japan’s largest elevation gain. It takes just 7 minutes and 30 seconds to climb the 950-meter elevation to reach the top and enjoy the magnificent mountain scenery that expands before you. Senjojiki Station, the ropeway terminus, sits at 2,612 meters and is situated above the Senjojiki Cirque. No special equipment or skills are required to walk the trail around the cirque; anyone can easily explore this unique world, high above it all. This ease of access is one of the area’s main attractions.

The Senjojiki Cirque: Forged by Glaciers in a World Above the Clouds Stepping out of the ropeway car at Senjojiki Station, you are soon among the alpine flora that thrive at these heights. At your feet is the Senjojiki Cirque, a giant, crescent-shaped basin created by glacial erosion some 20,000 years ago, and looking up, you can see the steep ridges of Mt. Hokendake at 2,931 meters towering above your head.

“‘Senjojiki’ means “1,000 tatami mats wide” – that’s how wide the cirque is!” explains Hiroshi Goto of the Komamine Alpine Club. “The moraines, with their huge boulders that have been carved out by glaciers and deposited around this huge basin, create a unique and magnificent sight. The Central Alps are Japan’s largest granite mountain range—the scene of the white rocks among the lingering snow across the cirque together with the lush green of the stone pines is quite simply amazing. I could spend all day gazing at it!” For over 55 years, Goto has been climbing Kiso-Komagatake and says that he lives “together with the mountain.” He describes the charms of the peak in each of the four seasons.

The Awakening of Spring “In the midst of the snow that still lingers during May, the fresh green of alpine plants like the Japanese stone pine begins to appear. Before long, the ridges are carpeted with a riot of colorful flowers. All around the Senjojiki Cirque and the Nogaike glacial lake, you’ll see the hardy alpine plants peeking through the unmelted snow. Each bud blooms at a different time, meaning you can enjoy a slightly different vista every day in the springtime.”

The Vibrance of Summer “The white hellebore, Aleutian avens, globeflowers... around July, so many of the alpine flowers go into full bloom all at once. The Senjojiki Cirque, covered in a blanket of snow earlier in the year, is transformed into a carpet of dazzling color. Summer is also a popular season for mountaineers, and you’ll see many heading up to the ridgeline from the cirque.”

The Crimson Foliage of Autumn “Late September into early October is the best time to see the changing colors of the leaves; the mountains turn into brilliant hues of red and yellow. At first, you see the transformation along the ridgelines; over the following two to three weeks, you see the colors gradually progress down the slopes. The ropeway is also a fantastic way to admire the beautiful autumnal landscape.”

The Other-worldliness of Winter “In winter, there’s snow covering the place as far as the eye can see; between April and May, you can enjoy a spot of snowboarding or skiing in the Senjojiki Cirque. Although there are many dangers to be found in the mountains in winter, there is something especially alluring about the other-worldly feel during that time of year, with the bracing sub-zero-air and tranquil white scenery. It is hard to describe in words the beauty of the mountain ridges as they catch the brilliant rays of the setting sun.”

In the years following World War II, Japan adopted a policy of encouraging the planting of conifers suitable for lumber. With the later liberalization of timber imports, a decline in domestic lumber began. With a lack of money to pay for thinning or logging the plantations that had been created, they soon turned into dense, dark coniferous forests. Due to the lack of variety in flora, many wild animals are now descending down into settlements to take the food from the fields—it is a serious problem that has emerged all over Japan in recent years.

“Even if a piece of timber has particular quirks, you can still find ways to work it,” notes Karaki. “For instance, instead of dismissing knots or branches as ‘defects’, you try and look for ways of putting these to good use. I think it’s important to find the beauty in the individuality of each tree.”

Life in the Shadow of Komagatake The mountains of this part of Japan have long played a big role in the daily lives of those who call it home. For example, locals in the past would see shapes of “people” or “animals” emerge on the peaks, formed by the melting snow, and use these as a guide for their farming pursuits. One such shape called the ‘Shimada musume’ appears with the coming of spring and was once the signal to start working the fields. One of the charms of a visit to this area is coming into contact with its history and customs.

“The roof is made from a series of hegi-ita, wood from mountainside forests thinly sliced so as to preserve the fibers, that is weighed down with stones. Rainwater flows down in the direction of the grain, so it drains very well; if the surface becomes damaged, they can simply be turned over and used again—very economical! They were used commonly on houses around here up until around 1955.”

Passing on Woodworking Traditions in the Modern Era In Miyata Village, soma—those who specialize in the cutting of trees from mountain forests—have been around since ancient times; the natural forests in the area have long supported the local economy and been a valuable resource to those that live here. The high level of woodworking and wood processing skills to be found in the region is a testament to this history.

Miura Wood Works, located in Miyata Village, produces kumiko, traditional Japanese lattice work made from thinned wood from local forests, that has won many numerous at national exhibitions. Kumiko is a woodworking technique in which geometric patterns are created by combining pieces of wood without the use of nails and is mainly used for decorating Japanese-style rooms.

“There used to be quite a number of kumiko craftsmen in the village,” explains company president, Toshio Miura. “But, as time went by, the number of houses with Japanese-style rooms decreased and they began to lose their jobs. In order to preserve the technique for future generations, we are making efforts to promote our traditional works to an international market. Last year, we exhibited our products at the Maison & Objet Paris trade fair—I felt we received a very positive response.”

The Artistry of Water and Wood: Whiskey and Craft Beer One of the benefits of this locale, between the mountains, is the abundance of water. At the foot of Mt. Kiso Komagatake is the Mars Shinshu Distillery, the only whiskey distillery in Nagano Prefecture, and the Minami Shinshu Beer Komagatake Brewery.

“The groundwater that comes from the Kiso Mountains produces delicious whiskeys and beer,” says Koki Takehira from the Minamishinshu Beer Company and someone with an intimate knowledge of the area’s history. “The groundwater here is soft, having been filtered through the granite mountains, helping to produce whiskey and beer with a mellow taste. And, when it comes to maturation, the cool air and diurnal temperature variation make for delightful whiskeys.”

Mars Shinshu Distillery is working on producing whiskey maturation casks made from Nagano-grown Mizunara oak. “The Mizunara has oriental nuances like sandalwood and aloeswood. It is so popular around the world that it has actually become harder to procure. There is a lot of hidden potential in the trees that grow here,” says distiller Kunihiro Kawakami.

Worshipped as a sacred mountain since ancient times, Kiso-Komagatake has long provided people here with abundant water and timber. The fact that local junior high school students have been climbing the peak as an annual school excursion for more than 100 years reminds us of the deep connection between the area’s inhabitants and the mountain. 

The admiration of the works of nature to be found on Kiso-Komagatake is timeless, its displays of astounding beauty to be enjoyed by every generation.