Surfeurs à la Côte des Basques à BiarritzFondation du patrimoine
A sport and way of life that came to symbolize the Aquitaine beaches
Surfing first arrived on the French coast in Biarritz in 1956. The young people of Biarritz were fascinated by the sport and launched themselves into it. The breakers of the Bay of Biscay made it a great location to surf. Let's find out more about this epic sport!
The Basque Coast in Biarritz: the birthplace of French surfing
It was in Biarritz, on the Basque Coast, that the European surfing adventure began. In August 1956, the filmmakers Peter Viertel and Dick Zanuck, as well as the writer Ernest Hemingway, were in Biarritz to shoot the film adaptation of Hemingway's novel: The Sun Also Rises. Already an avid surfer, the Californian Dick Zanuck wanted to test out the Basque waves and he brought a board from California. He introduced Viertel to the joy of boarding as Hemingway looked on. Unfortunately, the unwaxed board slipped under his feet and broke on the rocks of the Basque Coast. A Biarritz local, nicknamed Géo Trouvetout (Georges Hennebutte), repaired the board as he was familiar with such materials and thus he made friends with Peter. They surfed their first Basque waves together, in 1956.
Joël de Rosnay un des premiers surfeurs français de l'histoireFondation du patrimoine
The following year, in the summer of 1957, Peter Viertel returned to Biarritz with three boards. He gave one to the scientist Joël de Rosnay (pictured), who was holidaying in Biarritz, and he met up with two companions from the previous year: Georges Hennebutte and Jacky Rott, another Biarritz local.
This was how the passion for surfing made its official debut in Europe. These four first surfers, the precursors to the sport, are still known by later generations today as the tontons (uncle) surfers!
In 1959, they created the Waïkiki Surf-Club, with Michel Barland and Carlos Dogny, President of the Waïkiki Surf-Club in Lima, Peru, to get all the surfers in the region together.
Joël de Rosnay premier surfeur français de l'histoireFondation du patrimoine
In 1964, Joel de Rosnay created the Surf Club of France, which still exists today. He was invited twice to the World Surfing Championships in Australia and Peru and he also introduced the Basque Coast to international surfers.
Now living in Bidart, he still surfs every day, even at the age of 83. Nowadays he wears a helmet to protect himself against falls or collisions. He has made surfing a way of life.
According to Joël de Rosnay, surfing is a metaphor for life because it is about always staying upright in the waves, no matter what happens.
The art of surfing lies in anticipating and adapting to the weather conditions and the marine environment. Surfing also results in a muscular body, regardless of age.
Surfeurs à Parlementia à BidartFondation du patrimoine
Joël de Rosnay watches his boarding companions from the top of the Parlementia cliff in Bidart. His predictions regarding which surfer is best placed to catch the next promising wave are never wrong.
He was fascinated by the technical innovations and in particular the foil surfboards, which made it possible to rise above the water, and he wanted to try them out.
Les débuts du surf en FranceFondation du patrimoine
This short video shows images from 1957 featuring the first French surfers, including Joel de Rosnay and his brother Arnaud, who died in 1984 during an attempt to windsurf across the Formosa Strait in the China Sea.
Charley Puyo: a legend of Landes surfing
Between 1965 and 1970, the surfing craze crossed the Adour river and took over the southern beaches of the Landes region. Charley Puyo, from Dax, was one of the first people to surf, the now mythical waves of Seignosse, Hossegor, and Capbreton. Formerly a member of the French team, he participated in the first kneeboard world championships in Los Angeles, California in 1984. He then became the trainer for the French team. Charley Puyo can recall some intense training sessions, particularly the one on January 1, 1975, when he spent eight hours in the water, conquering superb waves and wearing tights under his wetsuit to resist the cold.
Carte marine de gouffe de CapbretonFondation du patrimoine
A geological peculiarity, the Gouf de Capbreton is what creates the mythical waves of the Landais coast.
This underwater canyon, which begins 984 feet (300 m) from the coast, allows the swell that comes from Newfoundland to form very powerful waves. These break mostly on North beach and on the Gravière beach in Hossegor.
Programme du championnat d'Europe de surf 1975Fondation du patrimoine
A little north of these beaches, in Seignosse, Charley Puyo took part in organizing one of the first international surfing competitions in France: Eurosurf 1975, following on from the 1961 one in Biarritz.
For young Landais people who are adept at surfing, it combines a passion with a way of life. They love the freedom and the trips along the French and Spanish coasts, searching for the most beautiful waves.
Programme du championnat d'Europe de surf 1975Fondation du patrimoine
At that time, European surfing was still dominated by the English. However, this competition saw the first French victory when Gérard Dabadie won the event.
Nowadays, the French dominate these events and they have won 12 of the last 19 European Championships. This superiority is even more significant for women surfers as French female competitors have won 14 of the last 16 European events.
Surfeurs aux Estagnots à SeignosseFondation du patrimoine
Surfing did not become a professional sport in France until the end of the 1980s.
1987 was a key year as it saw the creation of the state certification and the organization of the first professional competition: the RipCurl Pro.
This annual competition was replaced by the Quiksilver Pro in France in 2002. Charley Puyo was then the director.
Surfeurs aux Estagnots à SeignosseFondation du patrimoine
Today, the sport has become a flagship activity in the region. It is passed down by parents to their children. Many schools along the Basque-Landais coast offer surf lessons.
Surfeurs à Parlementia à BidartFondation du patrimoine
The spirit of 1970s surfers has endured, especially in the desire to preserve the ocean and the beaches.
An example of this is the Surfrider Foundation, which organises litter-picking operations every year. It also monitors water quality and is committed to preventing coastal development.
Rencontre avec Michel Plateau - Le surf sur la côte basco-landaiseFondation du patrimoine
A video interview with Michel Plateau, the National Technical Director of the French Surfing Federation, who discusses the values and the lifestyle of the sport of surfing.
Many thanks to Joël de Rosnay, Charley Puyo and Michel Plateau for their valuable help in writing this content.
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