American Brands in Hip Hop
Calvin Klein jeans, cotton denim, 1979, USA, gift of Mr. Calvin KleinThe Museum at FIT
Hip hop fashion has always been aspirational.
The “hip hop generation” (Gen X) adopted mainstream fashion trends—like designer jeans—and wore them in their own way.
Early must-have jean brands were name dropped by Run DMC (“Rock Box,” 1984) and Grandmaster Flash (“Them Jeans,” 1987), among others and included Calvin Klein, Guess, and Jordache.
Timberland man’s boots, beige suede, brown leather, synthetic material, and gold tone metal, 2013, USA, gift of Timberland (2013)The Museum at FIT
Hip hop devotees were a driving force in bringing workwear into fashion during the 1990s, modeling their styles on the blue-collar workers of their communities and the street hustlers who needed warm, dry shoes to weather the elements.
Despite the exposure and sales they brought, the brands Timberland, Carhartt, and Filson distanced themselves from the inner city youth market in a 1993 New York Times article, dismissing the workwear fashion trend that is now an enduring classic.
Michael Hoban for North Beach Leather, "8-Ball jacket," leather, fall 1989, USA, gift of Michael Hoban, North Beach Leather Michael Hoban for North Beach Leather, "8-Ball jacket," leather, fall 1989, USA, gift of Michael Hoban, North Beach LeatherThe Museum at FIT
Outerwear has been an important category for hip hop style, because luxe leather jackets and puffers provided warmth on the street, while showcasing some of the most expensive items in a wardrobe.
Michael Hoban designed the 8-Ball jacket for his North Beach Leather brand in 1990, and although its huge popularity—driven in part by Salt-N-Pepa—led to a short-lived trend, it became a classic hip hop fashion moment.
Polo by Ralph Lauren, man's wool sweater, late 1980s, USA, gift of Jeff Bailey (1980s)The Museum at FIT
Ralph Lauren established his clothing brand in 1967,
and by the 1980s, hip hop heads had adapted his all-American sportswear look into a unique style. Black and Brown men and women wearing the Polo brand made it a distinctive hip hop fashion. Ralph Lauren’s designs represented the American Dream, and they claimed it for themselves.
Polo by Ralph Lauren, Snow Beach man’s jacket, nylon and polyester, 2018 reissue of 1993 original design, USA, gift of Ralph Lauren CorporationThe Museum at FIT
Snow Beach Pullover
The Snow Beach pullover was worn by Raekwon in Wu-tang Clan’s “Can It all be so Simple” video (1994).
Acclaim magazine sums up its significance in hip hop style,
writing: “Not only did the jacket itself become iconic and widely coveted, it solidified Raekwon’s position as a tastemaker in the world of street wear, spearheading a movement, which extended Polo’s reach well beyond the country club."
European Brands in Hip Hop
Almost from its inception, hip hop style embraced European brands as symbols of wealth and exclusivity.
Louis Vuitton bag, canvas and leather, 1970s, France, gift of Gordon KendallThe Museum at FIT
Bags with logos broadcast the luxe designer labels that were liberally name-dropped in the music.
Gucci was an early favorite, but luxury companies did nothing to embrace their hip hop fans until younger designers like Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton and John Galliano at Dior took the helm.
Their interest in contemporary music led them to partnerships with hip hop artists—Galliano designed an entire custom look for Missy Elliott based on the Rasta saddle bag.
Gucci belt, suede and gilt metal, c. 1975, Italy, gift of Mrs. James Levy (1975)The Museum at FIT
Accessories were often gateway pieces to other designer items for the hip hop generation. Belt buckles and hoop earrings were a chic way to show off logos.
Jacket with Louis Vuitton monogram, vinyl, c. 1990, USA, gift of Rebecca Pietri Jacket with Louis Vuitton monogram, vinyl, c. 1990, USA, gift of Rebecca Pietri (1990)The Museum at FIT
European luxury logos inspired a vibrant design culture led by Dapper Dan of Harlem, but he was not the only designer to appropriate logos and apply them to contemporary silhouettes.
These “bootleg” designs often beat the designer brands to new styles that combined luxury logos with modern sportswear pieces like Members Only jackets.
Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: Fifty Years of Hip Hop Style was on view at The Museum at FIT February - April 2023. It was curated by Elena Romero, assistant professor, Advertising and Marketing Communications, FIT, and Elizabeth Way, associate curator of costume, MFIT.
