Panelitas

A specialty shredded coconut sweet

Volcanic town of Veracruz (2020-12-02) by Mark Quijano (illustrator) and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

El Cerro de las Trojes

The word Coscomatepec comes from the words Cuescomatl, which means granary, pot or wooden box made to hold seeds. The other word is Tépetl, meaning hill. In other words, Coscomatepec means mountain for storing seeds. 

Getting the core, Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), Itzel Mendoza (editor), 2020-12-02, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
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Removing from the shell, Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), Itzel Mendoza (editor), 2020-12-02, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
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Coscomatepec is a magical town embraced and protected by the high mountains of Veracruz, at the foot of the highest volcano in Mexico, the Pico de Orizaba. The genius of its typical dishes can be enjoyed in a wide variety of moles, pipianes, tlatoniles, barbacoa blanca, tamales, breads and a multitude of sweets.

Conical shapes (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

The coconut y las panelitas

The most popular sweet here are cocadas or panelas. This is due to the enormous amount of coconut palms that grow on the coasts of Mexico and the Caribbean.

Grating coconut pulp, Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), Itzel Mendoza (editor), 2020-12-02, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
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Female hands at work, Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), Itzel Mendoza (editor), 2020-12-02, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
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The panelitas of Cocomatepec are similar to piloncillo for their shape and color, and because they are made in a wooden mold. As for their flavor, the exquisite sweetness of panelitas is nothing like that of piloncillo, even though both are artisanally made Mexican delights.

Grated coconut (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Piloncillo

Piloncillo is not only physically similar to the panelita, but it is also a main ingredient of this exquisite coconut dessert. Piloncillo or "chancaca" is a word derived from the Nahuatl word chiancaca, which means "brown sugar."

Magic stove (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Like all the best things of our cuisine, the origin of the panelitas dates back to the pre-Hispanic era. In those times, sweets were cooked in a very thick, sweet and dark maguey honey, which over time was replaced by piloncillo.

Mold filling (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Panela (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

The sweets of the New World were mostly created in the convents and, like many dishes, were modified with the local ingredients.

Filling the gaps, Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), Itzel Mendoza (editor), 2020-12-02, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
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Coming out from the mold, Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), Itzel Mendoza (editor), 2020-12-02, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
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Panelitas, Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), Itzel Mendoza (editor), 2020-12-02, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
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Irene, the guardian

The guardian of this treasure is Ms. Irene Huerta, a native of Coscomatepec and the owner of the recipe, which she inherited from her mother. It has been passed down from generation to generation.

The instructions have traveled through time and space: the coconut is peeled and shredded. On the side, the milk is prepared with brown sugar. In the anafre, the copper pot is placed over a wood fire to mix the ingredients. After the milk has evaporated, the batter is poured into the mold.

The highest mountain in Mexico (2019-10-01) by Alfredo Morán (photographer) and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin

Final Outcome

They're not popular just for their delicious and heavenly flavor; their texture is also incredible. So enjoy some panelitas!

Credits: Story

Project Gastronomía - Colectivo Rokunin 2020
Panelitas, Coscomatepec, Veracruz, México. 

Text: Itzel Mendoza 
Editing: César Hernández y Alejandra Mendoza
Design: Roberto González y Alejandra Mendoza
Artwork: Mark Quijano
Photos: Gabriela Lavalle y Alfredo Morán

Licence: CC BY-NC-ND 4.0. 
Thanks to: H. Ayuntamiento de Coscomatepec, Veracruz.

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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