Charbroiled: Roasted meat in Nuevo León

The Museo Estatal de Culturas Populares (State Museum of Popular Cultures) presents a wonderful and fun reflection on our deep-rooted custom of throwing the pulled pork, with cabrito (goat) al pastor, some tacos de trompo, or empalmes (sandwiches). What is put on the grill are our affections and friendship.

By Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Nuevo León Regional Unit—General Directorate of Popular, Indigenous and Urban Cultures

Al carbón 3 (2001)Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

The historical reasons were sufficient for those from the north, and in particular those form Nuevo León, to preserve, emblematize and even popularize one of the most primitive techniques of food cooking: direct flame.

"Sábado de fut y parrilla" (2016) by "Chava"Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Until the 19th century and well into the 20th, Nuevo León was predominantly livestock and agricultural, and in that environment of mezcal, water and supplies to survive the working days, the custom of rewarding oneself with some game animals cooked directly over the wood was strengthened. Then the need would become culture and the "system" of cooking became part of the collective, patron saint, private and banquet festivals in general.

"Platillo tradicional" (2012) by "Chava"Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Today it is a practice that requires no reason, roasting meat or cooking over coal, it is the very reason people from Nuevo León delight in and around which they have created a series of cultural expressions and links with others, building one of the most popular activities in Nuevo León. For José Vasconcelos the brutality, for Alfonso Reyes a culture.

Al carbón 4 (2003)Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Coal

When heating the wood in the presence of air (oxygen), what we know as combustion occurs, but if we heat it in the absence of air there is pyrolysis, the end product of which is coal

Al carbón 1 (2001)Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Pyrolysis is the chemical decomposition of organic matter and all types of materials, except metals and glass, caused by heating in the absence of oxygen. But at present this chemical modification, pyrolysis is used in more processes than just charcoal making. Extreme pyrolysis, which leaves only carbon as a residue, is called carbonization.

Al carbón 2 (2001)Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Charcoal is a solid, fragile and porous combustible material with a high carbon content (about 80%). It is produced by the heating of wood and vegetable residues, up to temperatures ranging from 400 to 700 °C, in the absence of air.

Al carbón 5 (2003)Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

The calorific value of charcoal is much higher than that of burning wood. A century ago, in rural areas it was common to see the figure of the charcoal maker, a role now in the process of extinction, whose job was to completely cover huge piles of firewood with moss and young branches. Then he would light the firewood and let it burn for days. Then he climbed up to the top of the pile and trampled on it.

Al carbón 7 (2005)Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

When the layer was stable and did not tremble, a sign that everything was dried and hardened, the pile could be opened and the precious fuel obtained. But many died when the pile fell, still unhardened, which made the profession a risky profession. It is estimated that the amount of wood or logs used produces a third of its weight converted into charcoal.

Al carbón 24Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Coal in history

Charcoal is the first chemical transformation material used by man and its use probably dates from the very moment the fire began to be used; since the pieces of carbonized wood remaining in some bonfires can be considered a rudimentary charcoal.

Al carbón 8 (2006)Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Charcoal is mostly used as fuel, not only for domestic but also for industrial use, especially in developing countries. Charcoal production has a significant environmental impact that needs to be reduced.

Al carbón 9 (2006)Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Another fundamental use of charcoal is its use in metallurgy. The high temperatures required to melt minerals cannot be reached by simply using wood or iron age fuels.

Al carbón 11 (2007)Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

In addition, the carbon contained in charcoal acts as a reducer of metal oxides that form minerals and with the appropriate technique part of this carbon can be alloyed with iron to give rise to steel, much harder than iron, which was instrumental in the development of more resistant weapons and tools.

Al carbón 21Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Transformation of meat when it is roasted

You will have to consider that roasting meat is a chemical transformation procedure and that beyond the hand that flips the meat it gives rise to the interesting transformations that the meat experiences through cooking and roasting. 

Al carbón 14Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

When roasted, it has a weight loss of 20 to 25% and a crust of coagulated proteins and molten fat forms that prevents the release of certain substances. In addition, aromatic substances are formed from fats and proteins in the juice.

Al carbón 19Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

The phosphatids, which accompany the fat, and the acrolein indices from dehydration of the glycerin, released from the fats, are involved in this aroma. From the proteins, histidine, which is transformed into histamine, and glutamic acid, capable of improving the taste of meat and vegetables, mushrooms and green vegetables, are involved.

"Salchichas" (2012) by "Chava"Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

Where the roast meat begins… a new culture begins

With variations that distance and time have given him, José Vasconcelos is attributed with the phrase "culture ends where the roast meat begins" or, "where the roast meat begins, barbarity begins."

"Hamburguesa con papas" (2012) by "Chava"Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

On the other hand, the author Alfonso Reyes said that in the north there was the "culture of roast meat," He said it with the authority of being from Monterrey and with "knowledge of the cause," because this is how it is, because whoever eats the meat from the north, it is not explained to them why in cities like Mexico City there is so much "bad meat" in general.

"Sir Loin" (2020) by "Chava"Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

In essence, the region preserved throughout its history one of the most ancestral practices of cooking food: cooking directly over the flame. In other regions of the country, pre-Hispanic cultures and colonization, led the cooking from other aspects,
perhaps more elaborate and glamorous.

"Taco de ojo" (2012) by "Chava"Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

From the expressions of cooking on coal, which perhaps, as Dr. Camilo Contreras assures, roasting meat is the most widespread collective event in Nuevo León and has a special meaning. Roast meat not only appears when there is something to celebrate or share: birthdays, baptisms, football, etc., but the roast meat itself is the reason.

"Carboncito" (2012) by "Chava"Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

In this case pride is masculine (more than feminine) and is measured with the know-how around the roast meat: knowing how to buy the meat, knowing how to prepare it, knowing how to light the coal and leaving it while it is burning.

"Folklore" (2012) by "Chava"Ministry of Culture of the Government of Mexico

The assembly of the roast meat, the smoke and the smells (let's say the ritual), is a combination that makes a "place", which is understood as one that awakens feelings of belonging.

Credits: Story

Photographs and research: Programa de Acciones Culturales Multilingües y Comunitarias (Multilingual and Community Cultural Action Program)
(PACMYC) Caricatures: Salvador "Chava" Gonzáles
Nuevo León Regional Unit—General Directorate of Popular, Indigenous and Urban Cultures

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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