The Green Line: Nicosia's urban no-man's land

For nearly 60 years, an urban no-man's land has cut a swathe through Nicosia, the capital city of Cyprus. Initially intended as a temporary solution to intercommunal violence between Greek- and Turkish-Cypriots, the UN 'Buffer Zone' has stubbornly reshaped the city's urban fabric as well as the lives and livelihoods of those who call Nicosia home.

Nicosia Buffer Zone Giga (2019) by Elliot GravesDurham University

Known locally as the 'Green Line', the Buffer Zone within Nicosia's medieval city walls traces the path of Ermou Street (seen here running left to right). This was formerly the main shopping street of Nicosia. Today it is abandoned and derelict.

The Green Line forms the de facto border between the Greek-majority Republic of Cyprus (RoC) and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) - a proto-state recognised only by Turkey.

Overlooking the Green Line are military watchtowers and the flags of the opposing powers.

At street level it is possible to see the scars of the Turkish military invasion/liberation in 1974, and visual reminders that this space continues to be hotly contested and highly militarised.

Far from being a 'dead zone' (as it is often described by journalists), the Green Line has become a haven for flora and fauna.

In the distance the Selimiye Mosque (formerly the Cathedral of St Sophia) is a physical reminder of Cyprus's history of occupation by the Franks (1192-1489), the Ottomans (1571-1871) and, latterly, the British (1878-1960).

The Buffer Zone is not one uniform entity: it has different textures and fabrics.

Outside Nicosia there are villages entirely inside the Buffer Zone that continue to be inhabited. Here in Nicosia the Green Line is an almost total exclusion zone and is contained behind high walls, metal gates, barbed wire and concrete-filled oil drums.

There are now multiple generations of Cypriots who have grown up with, and grown accustomed to, the divide in the heart of their capital city.

But, as the UN seek to withdraw from Cyprus, and as the buildings themselves become ever-more dangerous, there is a question Ito be answered: what will be the future of Cyprus's no-man's land?

Will it be reoccupied by its former inhabitants? Will it become a heritage space? Or perhaps it will become an urban park and fulfil the promise of being a "Green Line" through the heart of the city.

Credits: Story

Photography and Post Production: Elliot Graves

Producer: Alasdair Pinkerton

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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