David T. Vernon Collection at Grand Teton National Park: Part I

This saddle may have derived from a Spanish- Mexican pack saddle made of hay stuffed into two cushions. This type of saddle with floral patterning was used by both men and women. Produced by Plains Cree and Plains Ojibwa, it became popular as a trade item to the Blackfeet and Sioux.

Highly prized, this graceful and ornamental women’s saddle has been derived from the Spanish Moor style, and adapted to native materials and modified to suit the taste of the women of the Northern Plains, Columbia River Plateau and some Great Basin tribes. The decorated saddle, beaded stirrups, bridle, girth, martingale, and crupper were used on dress occasions on women’s horses. Crow women today still dress their horses in finery to ride in the parades during the annual Crow Fair in Crow Agency, Montana.

In the early 1800s, Spanish horses often came to their new owner with a bridle. When the original leather wore out, replacements were often decorated to their preferences. Later, the Plains Indian headstalls were elaborately decorated with quillwork, beads, brass sequins, and yarn. Similarly decorated headstalls were, and still are, used in parades.

The Crow were superb horsemen and historically were successful at stealing horses from their traditional enemy the Sioux. The beadwork displayed on this horse head ornament is considered a classic style of the era between 1875 and 1900. The Crow people are renowned for their beautiful beadwork. Many horse trappings are decoratively beaded still today and can be enjoyed during the annual Crow Fair in eastern Montana. The horse head ornament is a decorative piece attached to the headstall for parade.

Before the arrival of the horse to North America the Plains Indian tribes used strips of bison leather and other natural materials to create rope. This rope is made from four strands of braided horsehair with the ends wrapped in red and blue trade cloth with lines of light blue and white seed beads. The horsehair is featured in its natural black state and also dyed yellow.

Lariats were made of bison hair, horse hair, and bison rawhide, in both braided and twisted techniques. This was used as an all-purpose rope. Strands of black and dyed yellow coarse horse hair (from the tail) diagonally twisted around a central core of four strands of chain-stitched hair.

The quirt was made and used by equestrian Indian tribes of the Plains. A quirt is a short riding whip consisting of a handle, wrist strap and lash. The beaded handle (peyote stitch) is typical of Southern Plains style.

Beaded saddle bags like this were thrown over a horse’s back and secured behind the saddle. The women of Northern Plains, Columbia River Plateau, and some Great Basin tribes still use decorative saddle bags like this during annual parade celebrations and rodeos.

Saddle blankets were only used in parades. Today, the Sioux nation still uses them during the annual summer celebration. This blanket is comprised of four long beaded panels, horizontally sewn onto canvas. The saddle blanket and back of the beaded panels are canvas. The beaded panels are sewn in geometric and heart designs. On each corner the long panels are edged with maroon and white calico and buckskin fringe and hawk bells. The four tabs hanging down from the blanket symbolize an animal’s four legs.

Sioux women were known for their signature buckskin dresses with fully beaded yoke. Often the beaded shoulder background was blue, representing a lake reflecting a blue sky. Cross patterns represent either the four directions or the morning star. The U-shaped design positioned at the center of the breast is reminiscent of the tail of an animal. This can also represent the turtle which possessed power associated with a woman’s capacity for childbirth and the natural cycles related to femininity.

The best known article of clothing for a Plains Indian male was his dress shirt. Shirts were highly decorated with paint and small bunches of hair. Quilled or beaded strips are sewn over the shoulders and along the sleeves with long fringes and ermine skins attached. Decorative shirts of honor were worn during tribal social and political events, often by men of importance in their tribes.

In the 1880s and 1890s, Plains women broke from their traditional pattern fashion to European styles. Jackets of this style were frequently commissioned by soldiers and settlers. The binary shirts with closed sleeves are a direct adaption from their traditional pattern to European fashion. Jackets of this style were worn by men and boys.

A fine example of the use of trade goods, this child’s shirt is made from hand-sewn cotton fabric decorated with German silver discs. Red and brown ribbon was sewn across the chest and along the neck and front opening. Fabric shirts and blouses were made during the early 1800s as these materials became available through trade. Many trade items such as metal buttons and discs were made of silver metal called “German silver,” a mixture of nickel, copper and zinc.

The European vest was adapted by many of the native Northern Plains people during the late nineteenth century. Many decorated and beaded vests are worn on special occasions.

Northern Plains, Columbia River Plateau, and Great Basin tribes adapted the custom of wearing skin gloves with long, flaring cuffs from army officers stationed at military posts during the last quarter of the nineteenth century. Gauntlet gloves featuring beaded cuffs were also commissioned by army officers. Prominent Indian men wore gauntlet gloves for parades and dress occasions.

This pair of fully beaded moccasins is made from the smoke flap of an old tipi. Such skins were thoroughly smoked from years of use resulting in a very soft and durable material.

These woman’s boots extended to the thigh and tie just below the knee with the top flap folded down. Women’s boots of this type were popular in the mid-nineteenth century on the Southern Plains with Kiowa, Comanche, Southern Arapaho, and Cheyenne people. This boot style is still worn occasionally for special occasions.

These hard sole buckskin moccasins feature fringe on the heel and along one side of the upper or vamp. The beadwork includes diagonal bands and a chevron pattern in cobalt blue, greasy yellow, rose whitehearts, light blue, on white background. The buckskin is stained yellow with a stripe of red paint down the vamp.

Five basic wardrobe items make up a Plains Indian woman’s wardrobe—dress, moccasins, leggings, belt, and shawl. Moccasins and leggings were always worn together by Plains Indian women. It was considered improper to appear without leggings. Leggings could be fully or partially beaded.

These leggings are sewn with sinew and beaded on buckskin. The geometric design in royal blue, green, greasy yellow, red, and Bodmer blue stands out on a white background. Along the side, a beaded strip features triangle design in royal blue, greasy yellow, red white-hearts and green. Beaded leggings were worn for special gatherings.

During the fur trade era, the Crow were successful traders. These leggings were constructed from traded materials including the red cloth and glass beads. Decorated and beaded leggings are worn for special occasions by the Crow people.

This particular style of moccasin was made and worn by the Kiowa, Comanche, and Cheyenne tribes of the Southern Plains. The moccasins were painted with yellow and red ochre and often fringed with a narrow band of beadwork on the vamp and heel.