Why indigenous wool?
Since the existence of mankind, humans and sheep have co-evolved to support each other in harsh climatic conditions. Eventually, pastoralism naturally fostered in India because one-third of the Indian terrain is semi-arid. These pastoralists nurtured special animal breeds that are resilient and have very light footprints on the earth. They are invaluable in arid regions as they conserve and sustain local ecosystems.
Importance of local wool economy
Native artisans and indigenous pastoral communities from Kutch, Gujarat became an integral part of this ecosystem. Artisans worked with hair and wool to create objects of great elegance. Till date, these generations-old craft practices are codependent and co-exist with the local ecology, environment and pastoral communities. These interlinked production systems have come under threat due to extensive industrialization.
The story of Desi Wool
Currently, It is a cycle of neglect by markets, herders, and policymakers alike that threatens the loss of a treasure trove of genetic resources. Such production systems, if revived, can employ millions in rural India. They can also be at the forefront of shifts towards green-production. Let’s delve into the story of Desi Wool.
Close-up of a sheep by Ishaan RaghunandanKhamir
History of wool
Anthropologists believe the use of wool came out of the basic challenge to survive in harsh climatic conditions.
Pastoralists with their life-long companions take shelter at a rural farm by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
For 13000 years, humans have sought protection from sheep
Over time, sheep have been selectively bred and domesticated by humans for sustenance. Here, a Maldhari pastoralist performs takli hand-spinning with raw wool
Humans and sheep have coevolved because of their intimate association for over 10,000 years.
Hundreds of sheep trot back home in evening by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
As of 2024
India is home to a staggering 7.5 crore sheep, making it the world's second-largest sheep population.
Rabaris on their way to the next grazing land by Living LightlyKhamir
Harsh climatic conditions in arid regions
Indian terrain has many such arid regions with extreme climatic conditions that are not well suited for agriculture-based production systems. One of them is Kutch.
Kutch is a kaleidoscopic land with a unique geography. It is a mosaic of diverse landscapes, people, and cultures.
A wide range of communities and cultures inhabit Kutch which settled here centuries ago following migrations out of Rajasthan, Sindh, Afghanistan and present-day Iran. Many of these communities were nomadic pastoralists from the Rabari community. Some remain so, though a considerable population has settled down since the 20th century.
Maldhari in a semi-arid region of Kutch by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
Kutch: An arid and semi-arid region
The ecology of Kutch is such that the region experiences little rainfall in comparison to other parts of India. A significant chunk of the geographic landmass is arid or semi-arid.
Jaggabhai, a Maldhari, explains his life story while hand spinning local sheep wool by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
What do these communities do in this realm of aridity?
These communities choose pastoralism and artisanal production for livelihood in such climatic-zones for centuries.
The nomadic Maldhari herders follow the ancient form of herding as a form of subsistence which is based primarily on tending domesticated animals. The Maldhari pastoralists of Rabari community maintain herds of wool-bearing animals.
Maldhari takes a siesta by Living LightlyKhamir
Kutchi pastoralists follow an ancient form of herding
The herders and their animals walk together for months across the country in search of pastoral grazing lands. Their lifestyle is in harmony with nature as this is a humane system of pastoralism where animals are not kept in stall barns and there is freedom of movement for these animals around the jungles.
Maldharis are as good at spinning sticks by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Sheep and humans coexist forming tribes
Maldhari pastoralists have also developed a language to communicate with their animals. They take care of animals to protect them from predators in jungles and guide them to the most fertile lands for grazing, while the animals provide them with clothing, milk and tents. Pastoralists do not slaughter their animals, but only use meat or hide of animals that die from natural causes.
Pastoralists with their livestock hold a night in the wilds of Kutch by Living LightlyKhamir
Pastoralists with their livestock hold a night in the wilds
Long migrations call for night halts in the hinterlands. Pastoralists walk for as long as 30 kms a day with their livestock in search of grazing lands, shelter and food. They take shelter at farms as a barter for goat/ sheep penning. Penning is a fascinating cooperative effort between herders and farmers.
Home in one frame by Living LightlyKhamir
Rabaris create make-shift homes under open skies
The Maldhari pastoralists carry all their necessary utility objects on a camel during long migrations in search of grazing lands and shelter. They also make their young kids and lambs sit in the camel cart for the younglings are not trained to walk for many kilometres at a stretch.
Note: Maldhari is an umbrella name for all pastoralists in Kutch. They prominently are a part of the Rabari community in Kutch.
Maldhari pastoralists provide raw materials like wool for artisan communities who make skilled products like woollen clothes, blankets, bags, carpets and other utility products.
Undyed, raw indigenous wool by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Wool is the most versatile fibre for the Rabari community
Wool from sheep is recognised as one of the most practical and versatile fibres to use by the Rabari community in such harsh climatic conditions.
A Rabari woman in her traditional attire by Yashas MittaKhamir
A Rabari woman in her traditional attire
The Rabari women wear indigenous woollen clothes 365-days of the year because wool keeps them cool in summers and warm in winters. This may sound strange but this is due to the insulation property of wool combined with the weaving technique that allows air to enter and pass in a certain way.
Two Patanwadi sheep grazing in the grasslands by Ishaan RaghunandanKhamir
Wool is one of the most eco-friendly fibres
With one-fourth of the ecological footprint of synthetic fibres such as nylon, wool is one of the most environment-friendly fibres. And this is only one of the reasons to conserve the indigenous sheep of India.
Many properties of indigenous wool
Wool is a natural fibre that has several properties. Woollens resist odour, stain and wrinkles, repel water, block harmful UV rays, insulate, and breathe. Indigenous wool has temperature regulating properties.
Close-up of a sheep by Ishaan RaghunandanKhamir
Wool wicks moisture away from the skin
All these make wool a great choice.
This eco-friendly fibre bio-degrades faster than most other natural fibres.
Indigo dyed indigenous sheep wool hanks by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Wool sequesters carbon from the earth
It is also upcycled and readily recyclable – with a market share of 1.3% of all textile fibres, wool claims 5% within the recycled fibres market share.
Sheep, goats and camels grazing in pasture lands by Living LightlyKhamir
Grazing lands in Kutch
Every sheep herding landscape in this country, till recently, prided itself on an indigenous wool economy and thrived on local value chains.
Desi Oon: A harmony between the man and the sheep by Living LightlyKhamir
The Rabari community breeds resilient indigenous sheep
The Rabari community of Kutch contributed by nurturing an invaluable genetic resource of resilient breeds. These sheep have become strong and adaptive to the difficult geography and climate. Pastoral communities take pride in the calibre of their animals more than anything.
The hardy Patanwadi sheep of Kutch by Ishaan RaghunandanKhamir
Indigenous sheep of Kutch: Patanwadi Sheep
Patanwadi sheep is one such treasured breed, prized for its wool as well as for sturdiness.
Sheep bleat while moving forward to graze by Aishwarya MaheshwariKhamir
Decreasing population of Patanwadi...
Of late, a diminishing local wool economy has led to a rapid reduction in the numbers of Patanwadi sheep.
Pastoralists with their livestock during long migration by Living LightlyKhamir
At last count, the numbers had dwindled to less than 5000
This imbalance in the number is caused due to the shift to more meat producing breeds like the Marwari which can bear long migrations, unlike Patanwadi. The income from wool is almost zero today while the income from sheep penning has also reduced as the agricultural systems in the region are witnessing a shift to high-input and high output farming methods in which synthetic fertilisers are used.
Maldhari Rabari pastoralists on the move by Living LightlyKhamir
Industrialisation is destroying these local economies
Uncertain climatic conditions have influenced the choices of the herders along with a host of other factors, one of them being industrialisation.
Indigenous wool had been extremely resourceful for the local communities in Kutch. They used this wool in building homes, for their clothing, quilts, home furnishing and as wind-cheaters and shawls (Dhabla) for protection from severe weather.
Herders wash their utensils after eating lunch on the move by Pratishtha ChhetriKhamir
Herders wash their utensils after eating lunch on the move
The indigenous communities in Kutch had been following the idea of circular design even before it became the zeitgeist, more so, because they understood the way their local ecology worked.
Home in one frame by Living LightlyKhamir
...Until globalisation hit
Free-trade, especially in the last three decades, has devastated these economies and systems. Herders lost their livelihoods and indigenous species while artisans lost easy access to local and sustainable raw materials.
Still, many artisans have remained committed to their craft and many pastoralists have remained committed to their animals – both, strongly rooted in keeping their culture and tradition alive. The revival of this local value chain will insulate their production systems and local ecology from external market fluctuations. The lifecycle of indigenous woollen products has a significantly low carbon footprint.
Therefore, this local wool value chain will not only be environmentally-conscious but also help alleviate the trials and tribulations faced by the indigenous communities of rural India.
The Desi Wool Initiative
The Desi Oon (Indigenous Wool) Initiative has emerged out of the need to conserve and promote this sustainable wool textile value chain. This indigenous production system can help preserve the ancient heritage breeds and pastoral & artisan livelihoods in India.
About Khamir
KHAMIR is a non-profit organisation based in Kutch, Gujarat that works to preserve and promote crafts practices. Khamir's philosophy is on nurturing indigenous ecosystems, skills, raw materials and artisan capacities to promote resilient, self-sustaining economies in arid and semi-arid regions.
Indigenous wool of Kutch
Kutch with its large sheep and camel population had always had a ready supply of wool. Men and the women of herding families spun wool into yarn and handed it to artisans to make versatile wool-crafts.
Preservation of local ecosystems
Khamir hopes that the story of indigenous wool and well-designed hand-crafted woollen products will help sway consumer preferences and open them to accepting indigenous wool in their households and closets to promote ethical consumerism and preserve these local ecosystems.
Online curation mentor: Meera Goradia Text: Khamir Team
Photography and video: Ishaan Raghunandan, Pratishtha Chhetri and Aishwarya Maheshwari
Artisans: Rabari Jaggabhai, Rabari Harkuben, Veerjibhai, Ranabhai, Laljibhai Dikha Vankar
Khamir Team: Sushma Iyengar, Durgalakshmi Venkataswamy, Meera Goradia, Ghatit Laheru, Paresh Mangaliya, Tanveen Ratti, Ranabhai Vankar, Pratap Chavda, Saumya Singh, Khyati Vinod, Shinjini Kotia, Shouryamoy Das, Shabri Wable, Aishwarya Maheshwari
Online exhibit curation: Aishwarya Maheshwari
