Dress Codes in the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection

A visual guide to how royal dress codes are manifested

Fashion plate depicting peeresses in coronation robes (1838)Historic Royal Palaces

Dress codes define what we wear, and how the rest of the world sees us, both historically and today. They can be written, defined through laws, regulations, or the instructions on an invitation. They can be unwritten, shaped by society and cultural trends or conventions.

Hanoverian royal household livery (1817)Historic Royal Palaces

Liveries and Working Uniforms

People who work in royal households often have uniforms to show their role. They may be practical and hard-wearing for everyday work or more magnificent for state and ceremonial occasions.

Coatee, part of Court Dress suit for Japanese official (1900-40) by Densuke UyemuraHistoric Royal Palaces

Diplomatic Uniforms

In the 19th and early 20th centuries many countries developed uniforms for their ambassadors and diplomats to wear for their official duties abroad which are often similar to court uniforms. While not worn often, some countries and courts still use diplomatic dress today.

Tabard for Herald (1830-40)Historic Royal Palaces

Ceremonial Dress

For the most important state occasions, special clothes are worn. These can be traditional, based on models that haven't changed for centuries like heralds tabards. They can also be designed especially for an occasion, like coronation dresses.

Open robe dress (c. 1845)Historic Royal Palaces

Costumes and Fancy Dress

While often seeming fun, fancy dress has been used by royalty to promote national industries or to support charities. Queen Victoria’s three fancy dress balls promoted the Spitalfields silk industry because everyone would have to buy new clothes for the costume theme.

Evening dress (1991) by Catherine Walker (1945-2010)Historic Royal Palaces

Formalwear

Formal or evening wear is often elaborate or conforming to traditional dress codes. Royalty will wear evening wear for official duties including state dinners or overseas visits. For women this will often be a full-length evening or ballgown.

Skirt suit worn by Diana, Princess of WalesHistoric Royal Palaces

Daywear

Daywear is worn for formal royal duties and visits during the day. Daywear for official visits needs to be carefully thought about to be suitable for the planned activities, and if worn overseas, for the culture and climate of the host country.

Baby robe worn by George IV (c1762 to c1776)Historic Royal Palaces

Children's Clothes

Historically children's clothes have either been miniature versions of what adults have worn or have had their own style to recognise childhood as a distinct stage of life. Children's clothes will sometimes be made from finer fabrics for special occasions.

Court dress and train (1928) by RevilleHistoric Royal Palaces

Women's Court Dress

From the 18th century, women coming to court wore specific styles of clothing, such as wide mantuas. By the early 20th century, women's court dress had to conform to the rules specified by the Lord Chamberlain in the book Dress Worn at Court.

18th century court suit (c.1780)Historic Royal Palaces

Male Court Dress

In the 18th century, men wore fine and expensive clothes in a court style. In the 19th century the clothes men wore at court become regulated, with people holding official positions wearing uniforms to show their role and status.

Shirt worn by Prince Albert (1854)Historic Royal Palaces

Underwear

Underwear has a practical purpose as a barrier between the  body and outer clothes. It follows dress codes to create the shape and style for the clothes that go over it. Royal underwear was often marked with the initials of the owner.

Dress ensemble worn by Vivienne Westwood at Investiture (2005-6) by Vivienne WestwoodHistoric Royal Palaces

Modern Investiture Wear

Today, thousands of people attend the Royal Household each year for garden parties and investiture ceremonies. The dress code specifies formal wear, national dress, or uniform. People dress their best and express their values, culture or own sense of style.

Court dress uniform (1885-86) by Henry Poole & Co.Historic Royal Palaces

Browse the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection and see if you can identify which dress codes each garment follows.

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Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection
Up close with five centuries of clothing in the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection
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