Original Crockett & Jones factory in Northhampton by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
The home of fine English shoes
Cordwainers (a middle-aged term for shoemakers) were first attracted to the county of Northamptonshire because of the area’s thriving tanning industry. Every village and town within the county had its own cordwainers, the number of whom would continue to grow throughout the middle ages.
By 1642, the reputation of Northampton town had grown so much that 13 shoemakers were commissioned to produce 600 pairs of boots and 4000 pairs of shoes for England’s army going to Ireland. The order was fulfilled and it was now known that the town possessed the ability to produce footwear on a large scale.
The industry continued to flourish, propelled by previous successes, arguably in line with necessities of war. The town was called upon to produce army boots for multiple wars from the English Civil War to the Boer War centuries later. Demand for Northampton shoes became so strong that by the year 1841 there were 1,821 shoe makers in the town.
Machinery would soon follow enabling footwear to be produced on an industrial scale.
Photo from The Book of Welt by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
First Generation
Crockett & Jones was established in 1879 by two brothers in law, James Crockett & Charles Jones. James was raised by his grandfather Henry Marshall, who was a boot and shoe manufacturer in Northampton. James left school at the age of 10 to work as an errand boy before becoming an apprentice clicker. He would go on to work as a shoe maker in Worcester, London and Birmingham. Charles, meanwhile, was from a long line (at least 3 generations) of respectable shoemakers in Northamptonshire, and was himself a clicker by trade. He married James’ younger sister, Annie Marshall – a shoe fitter, in 1873.
Six years after this marriage, James and Charles decided to go into business together but they lacked the necessary funds to open a factory. To overcome this, they applied for, and were granted, a sum of £100 each from the Thomas White Trust which was established to ‘encourage young men of good character in the towns of Northampton and Coventry to set up business on their own’.
Cover of The Book of Welt by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
The first Crockett & Jones factory was a small building on Exeter Road, Northampton which housed the initial 20 employees. Family was crucial from the start as the firm employed two of Charles’ brothers, his sister and his wife.
Business flourished and production needed to expand, so in the early 1880s Crockett & Jones moved into premises on Carey Street allowing more and more work to be done inside the factory.
Here they would install the latest machinery invented by Charles Goodyear from the USA for stitching the upper and insole to a welt. This made the process much easier and faster whilst also providing a superior construction. It would be known as Goodyear Welting.
Photo of the second generation to join Crockett & Jones family business by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
Second Generation
With the arrival of the 1890s came the 2nd generation of family to join the business; Harry Crockett, Fred Crockett and Frank Jones – sons of James and Charles respectively. James Crockett and Charles Jones again recognised the need to find a larger factory for continued expansion of the business. By 1891 they had relocated to a new factory in Magee Street, where the company continues to produce footwear to this day. Growth continued and although the majority of the shoes were sold in the home market, the company was beginning to develop an important export market by ‘following the flag’ through the British Empire.
In 1910, a 5-storey factory expansion commenced that was the first steel structured building in Northampton. It benefited from a huge proportion of glass to give superb natural lighting for production – an asset which is still integral for the workforce.
The quality and reputation of Crockett & Jones footwear at this time had become so revered that the firm was asked to provide specially designed boots for an Antarctic expedition. They proved so successful that C&J was requested to produce boots a 2nd time for the Shackleton Endurance Expedition in 1914.
Photo from The Book of Welt by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
When the First World War broke out, both Clifden Crockett and Percy Jones were called upon to serve their country, and, in a sense, so was Crockett & Jones. The company manufactured boots for the army, with production increasing so that over 600,000 pairs were being made in a year. Sadly, Clifden was killed in action in 1916 during the Battle of Pozieres Ridge aged just 22. Percy however was lucky enough to return to Crockett & Jones after the war, and would become a partner within 4 years.
1924 was a year of great pride for all at the company. Crockett & Jones was honoured with a visit from the future King George VI who paid great attention to the shoe making process on a tour around the factory, led by recently knighted Sir James Crockett.
Sketch of the enlarged Crockett & Jones factory by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
Third Generation
In 1927 Gilbert Jones, son of Frank, joined Crockett & Jones. There were now 3 generations working together for the first time, truly cementing the status of Crockett & Jones as a family company.
As the company continued to grow, a second wing was added to the factory in 1935 to provide a new office block, showroom and in-stock department. The original front door was moved from Magee Street to Perry Street where it is still used as the main entrance today, retaining its impressive 1930s Art Deco design.
Soon, war would again rear its ugly head, and Crockett & Jones would be called upon once more to manufacture shoes and boots for the armed forces. In fact, the company made over 1 million pairs over the course of the war, and, as many of the workforce left to fight, many retired men and married women returned to work as part of the war effort.
After the war, in 1946, Clifton Crockett, grandson of Sir James, joined the company. He would stay for 6 years before leaving in 1952, making him the last member of the Crockett family to work at Crockett & Jones. A year after, in 1947, Richard Jones, son of Percy and grandson of founder Charles, joined the business after serving in the Royal Navy.
Throughout the 1950s the bulk of production was sold in the home market, although the overseas market had begun to expand again so that by 1962 around 18-19% of the total output was exported. By this time, production focus had returned more to producing men’s shoes. Beginning in the 70s, times proved to be much harder for the Northampton shoe industry with increased competition from the global markets, predominantly in the form of cheaper imports. There still remained more than 100 small family firms making shoes in Northampton, a significant number but a huge reduction nonetheless from the early 1900s.
Cover of 1932 Crockett & Jones catalogue by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
Fourth Generation
1977 saw Jonathan Jones, son of Richard and great grandson of Charles Jones, join the company, at a time when exports had increased to about 30% of the output and the vast majority of production, around 80%, was made up of men’s shoes. However, the company sensed that there would be tougher times ahead for the industry so over the coming years the collections were re-defined and the would focus would be placed on producing the highest quality men’s Goodyear Welted footwear. As standards continually improved, so would the reputation of the brand and export sales in Europe, USA and Japan were gradually developed.
As the business began to build again over the next decade, exports reached 70% of the overall production and in 1990 Crockett & Jones was awarded the coveted Queen’s Award for Export Achievement. Through the 90s the reputation of the Crockett & Jones brand as a signal of quality had grown, and so it was decided to re-visit the company’s long standing interest in retail. In 1997 Crockett & Jones opened their first standalone retail shop in Jermyn Street, London.
Over the following years, the retail network would expand to establish more shops in London as well as in Paris, New York, Brussels and Birmingham.
In 2004 the factory in Perry Street, one of the few remaining working shoe factories, became designated a Grade II listed building in order to help preserve the history of the shoe trade in Northampton.
Nicholas Jones joined his brother Jonathan and father Richard at Crockett & Jones in 2005 as Production Director, after a previous career in farming. He would be the last member of the fourth generation to work at the company.
The fifth generation to lead Crockett & Jones by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
Fifth Generation
A year later in 2006, Philippa Jones, Jonathan’s daughter, became the first member of the 5th generation to join the company at the age of just 21.
Crockett & Jones continued to export about 70% of production, and the expansion of the retail division, together with the on-going development of worldwide distribution, led to the brand becoming internationally established.
As the retail division continued to grow, so did awareness of the company. The 2012 James Bond film Skyfall chose to use Crockett & Jones footwear for the film, which proved a huge success for Crockett & Jones. Such was the popularity that the following film in the franchise, Spectre, would also see James Bond styled in Crockett & Jones shoes.
89 years after King George VI visited the factory, in 2013, His Royal Highness Charles, Prince of Wales would follow in his grandfather’s footsteps as part of a nationwide tour to highlight the importance of encouraging young people into manufacturing. Crockett & Jones was once again honoured to host a member of the royal family at the factory.
In 2015, William Jones, son of Jonathan and brother of Philippa, became the next member of family to start working at the company.
By 2016, Crockett & Jones shoes were being exported to nearly 30 countries around the world alongside a retail network of 12 own brand stores. After more than 135 years the shoes still retain the attention to detail, quality, comfort and durability that was the hallmark of their founders, Sir James Crockett and Charles Jones.
Est. 1879, a timeline
1879 - The story begins… Crockett & Jones was founded by James Crockett & Charles Jones with a workshop on Exeter Road in Northampton. Later moving to a factory on Carey Street.
1911 - Worldwide Recognition
Crockett & Jones was awarded the Diploma of Honour for design at the International Manufacturing Exhibition of Turin. Clifden Crockett, youngest son of James, joined the business.
1914 – Shackleton
Crockett & Jones footwear was used for the 2nd time on the Shackleton Endurance Expedition.
1914-1918 – World War I
Crockett & Jones manufactured boots for the British Army throughout World War I.
1924 - Royal Patronage
Crockett & Jones was honoured with Royal Patronage in 1924 - a visit to the factory by the Duke of York (later King George VI).
1935 - Expanding once again
A second wing was added to the factory. The main entrance was moved from Magee Street to Perry Street.
1997 – Retail is established on Jermyn Street, London An unknown retail story begins… the first Crockett & Jones retail shop opens in Jermyn Street, London.
1998 - La Madeleine, Paris Soon after the first shop, a partnership is struck in Paris to build and strengthen an already growing French market. Crockett & Jones opens a retail shop on Rue Chauveau Lagarde, Paris.
2010 - A Retail Milestone The first Crockett & Jones shop in New York was opened at 7 West 56th Street.
2011 - A Flagship is born Crockett & Jones opened their largest shop to date at 92 Jermyn Street, London to become the new ‘flagship’ for the UK.
2012 II - James Bond, Skyfall
Crockett & Jones proudly supplied 4 styles for the James Bond film Skyfall, and gained worldwide recognition.
2015 II - James Bond, Spectre
And again in 2015, Crockett & Jones supplied a selection of styles for the James Bond film, Spectre.
HRH The Prince of Wales by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
2017 - Royal Warrant
Crockett & Jones proudly to announced that they had been awarded a Royal Warrant by HRH The Prince of Wales.
In the Making
The journey of a Crockett & Jones shoe
A shoe in the making - pattern cutting by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
1. Pattern Cutting
Once a design or style is agreed on by our Managing Director, it is discussed with our Pattern Cutters. Pattern cutting is the initial design and development phase and as any established Pattern Cutter will tell you, “If a pattern is not perfect when it leaves our pattern room, the shoes will not be perfect when they leave our factory.”
A shoe in the making - a craftsman clicking by hand by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
2. Clicking
With the leather stores bursting at the seams with high quality European calf, grain and suede, the clickers are eagerly poised with their knives at the ready. But not just any old knives… A Clicker’s main responsibility is to examine the leather for defects and to ensure these are not included in the shoes. Leather defects can be found in the form of barbed wire or disease scars, growth marks or veins. An experienced Clicker needs to be knowledgeable and highly skilled, in order to maximize the usage whilst retaining the utmost quality.
A shoe in the making - closing by hand by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
3. Closing
The Closing Room has over 100 members of staff, a busy department indeed. More operations can be found in this department than any other in the factory, each one of them requiring dexterity and patience.
A shoe in the making - preparation of individual pieces by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
4. Preparation
Preparation refers to the gathering of all other components that are required during the making of our shoes. In typical Crockett & Jones form, many of the components are produced in-house, including the cutting of heels, insoles and soles. The heel department and sole department are small workshops in their own right and work tirelessly to feed the factory beside them.
A shoe in the making - lasting by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
5. Lasting
Crockett & Jones uses the term ‘Lasting’ to refer to ‘pulling the upper over the last’ thereby giving shape to the shoes. The last is a shoemaker’s foundation, and can be thought of as their most closely guarded secret. With heritage paving the way for the exceptional last development, Crockett & Jones are continually developing new lasts.
A shoe in the making - stitching process by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
6. Making
Making is where you will find the famed ‘Goodyear-welting’ stitching machines. As the first shoe factory this side of the Atlantic, to install the latest version of a welt sewing machine (c1910), the ever industrious Messrs. Crockett & Jones were able to scale up production to 600 pairs per day.
A shoe in the making - the finishing process by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
7. Finishing
Craftsmanship is now in full flow and mistakes are costly. The Finishing Room is where a team of finishers are cleaning, preparing and adding the finishing touches to the soles, that Crockett & Jones customers appreciate so greatly.
A shoe in the making - the finishing process by Crockett & JonesBritish Fashion Council
8. Shoe Room
In the Shoe Room the uppers of the shoes are hand polished to create the rich depth of colour in the leather. We call this ‘antiquing’ and ‘burnishing’. For some leathers this has to be repeated multiple times with the shoes being ‘mopped’ in between each coat of antique. The lasts are then removed from the shoes, the leather soles are stamped with the Crockett & Jones brand and in-socks are fitted. Finally, the shoes undergo a scrutinised check for quality before they can be passed for lacing and boxing.
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