Costumes and Crafts of Awadh

A distinctive aspect of Lucknow life was its sartorial style. Costumes such as farshī pyjāmās, ġarārās, lehngās, cunā leheriyā dupaṭṭās, sārīs, ackans, cauṛā pyjāmās, dhōtīs, kurtās, angarkhās, ṭōpīs and sāfās continued to be donned by its inhabitants until the late 20th century. The city’s diverse citizenry wore fine muslin or silk, luxurious brocades, plain cottons and khadi.

Those who could afford it, embellished their costumes with cikankārī or with gold and silver embroidery in mukaish and zardōzī, accessorized with fine jewellery, ṭukṛī baṭuās and handcrafted footwear. These patrons supported the development of exquisite craftsmanship and creativity, making Lucknow workmanship and aesthetics much sought after.

Keepers of family history and traditions over generations have shared their lovingly preserved treasures with us. Some costumes are more than a hundred years old, the base cloth now fragile but the colours and embellishments just as vibrant and enchanting as if they were made today. The Lucknow craftsperson’s skill, patience and eye for detail is evident, as is the mastery of its tailors and the artistry of its women who set the colour pallette for the costumes they made or commissioned.