Fitting and Befitting

Spectacle fibula | 9th-8th century BCE | Northern Greece | Bronze

The spectacle fibula dates back to the Central European Urnfield culture (13th–11th century BC). In Greece, these elaborately crafted garment fasteners became common accessories in the 11th century BC, and were usually worn in pairs, one on each shoulder. Reminiscent of spectacles (hence the name), this double-spiral type of fibula was made from a single bronze wire.

Fibula | 8th century BCE | Greece

Displaying a magnificently lustrous green patina, this bronze fibula is characterized by the archetypal fibula shape featuring an arched element and a pin. It also illustrates how fibulae were used. The principle is similar to that of a modern safety pin. This type of fibula was mainly used to fasten cloaks and coats.

Buckle | About 700 BCE | Ireland | Gold

With its strong clip and golden 'bowls' it was simply meant by hold together several parts of the dress.

Etruscan fibula | Second half of the 6th century BCE | Gold

Fibulae were not only regarded as useful devices, they were often lavishly decorated as well. This small fibula enhanced with a sphinx on the catch was created in Etruria. The Etruscans were virtuoso masters of the goldsmith’s craft, as is also evidenced by the next piece.

Etruscan ornamental discs | 6th century BCE | Gold with granulation

Granulation, a technique of decorating a precious metal surface (mostly gold or silver) with tiny spherules of usually the same material was used back in the 3rd millennium BCE. The technique reached its apogee in the 6th century BCE in Etruria, today’s Tuscany region, as is evidenced by two golden ornamental discs worn as earrings by a noblewoman around that time and displaying the Etruscan goldsmiths’ outstanding craftsmanship.

Fibula | 3rd-4th century AD | Roman | Gold

Fibulae also played an important role in Roman times, both as practical and as ornamental objects, like this Late Roman crossbow fibula, a type that was often worn by men on the shoulder.

Bow fibulae | Late 5th century | Silver, partly gilt, almandine, niello

Bow fibulae were usually worn in the pelvic or leg area, where they presumptively served to hold together a person’s skirt or kilt.

Dress ornament | 6th century | Bronze

Rings and garment decoration were the most common types of jewellery in the Early and High Middle Ages. People used to wear wide cloaks on top of their clothing, which were secured by a garment fastener. The neck opening was fastened by means of an ornamental clasp called an agraffe.

Bunch of flowers (agraffe) | About 1620-1630 | Gold, emerald, diamonds, enamel


The Late Middle Ages saw the advent of the agraffe, which could be used to fasten two pieces of clothing. There were types of agraffe that were permanently sewn to garments, joining the pieces concerned by means of hooks and eyelets.

Other types were merely hooked to the two garments involved, and could be taken off. One magnificent example is this agraffe created around 1620 in the shape of a sumptuous bouquet of flowers made of gold, diamonds, enamel and a resplendent emerald. Style-conscious gentlemen even liked to wear a dazzling eye-catcher like this attached to their hats.

Pectoral | About 1700 | Spanish | Gold, diamonds, enamel

The sumptuous brooch designed in about 1700 emphasized the décolleté of a Spanish lady.

Pendant featuring Philip of Bourbon About 1700

Pendant/brooch featuring Philip of Bourbon in silver, miniature portrait on copper, diamonds.

Brooch | About 1750

Silver, gold, topazes, diamonds, enamel

Brooch | About 1800 | Silver, diamonds, glass

Brooch | Early 19th century | Berlin | Iron

Brooch | About 1840 | Pforzheim | Gold, turquoises, enamel

Brooch | Mid-19th century | Erbach in the Odenwald | Ivory

Mourning brooch | 1835 - 1866 | England

Gold, enamel, hair arranged on opaque glass, under a glass cover, photo on the reverse

Brooch | John Brogden | Between 1864 and 1885 | London | Gold, enamel

Brooch | 1860/1870 | Gold, diamonds

Its diamonds blossoms are secured so that they slightly vibrate in tune with their female owner's movement.

Brooch | Louis Aucoc | 1898/1900

A gold female nude reclining on a shell is menaced by an octopus. The »plique-à-jour« enamel water is bordered by scrolls set with diamonds.

Brooch | Theodor Fahrner | About 1930 | Silver, amethyst, amazonite, marcasite

Brooch | Josef Hoffmann | About 1910 | Vienna | Copper, enamel

Brooch | Elisabeth Treskow | About 1941 | Essen | Gold with granulation, diamonds, pearl

Brooch | Reinhold Reiling | Pforzheim | 1967 | Gold, diamond, ruby

Brooch | Jens-Rüdiger Lorenzen | 1988 | Steel, nickel silver, paper

Brooch | Reinhold Reiling | Pforzheim | 1967 | Gold, diamond, ruby

Brooch | Georg Dobler | 2008 | Silver, smoky quartz

»Viviane« brooch | Bettina Speckner | 2009 | photos etched into zinc, silver, emerald, beads, mother-of-pearl