Reigning Men: Fashion in Menswear, 1715 - 2015

MACARONI

Influenced by continental styles, the macaroni — named after the Italian pasta dish enjoyed by well-to-do young Englishmen on the “Grand Tour” of the European continent — dressed to assert his cosmopolitan outlook. At a time when British men wore looser silhouettes, the macaroni wore ensembles that were noticeable for their bright colors and slim cuts.

REVOLUTION AND ANARCHY

During the final period of the French Revolution, gangs of young men roamed the streets of Paris wearing tight, extravagantly cut tail coats and cropped pantaloons, often in conspicuously striped fabrics. These incroyables, or “incredible ones,” were fashion extremists whose outrageous appearance, so different from their forefathers, illustrated the instability of the period. Centuries later, Walter Van Beirendonck appropriated the look, eclipsing its excesses with skin-tight leather trousers and a superbly tailored, orange frock coat (see next page).

AESTHETE AND HIPPIE

Following World War II, some London tailors resurrected elements of Edwardian-era styles, creating a look that was characterized by long single-breasted jackets with narrow shoulders and velvet trim. Originally worn by the wealthy, the neo-Edwardian style was soon adopted by young working-class men, albeit with more exaggeration and color. Though “Teddy boys” (as they were dubbed, after the traditional nickname for Edward) were considered delinquents by the popular press, these modern-day dandies were precursors to the 1960s Peacock Revolution of flamboyant dress for men.

YOUTH AND REBELLION

Flamboyant in style and exaggerated in proportion, zoot suits were born from the swing clubs and dance halls frequented by urban youths in the 1930s and early 1940s. This extremely rare example, probably from Harlem, has overly broad shoulders with wide, pegged sleeves, free-hanging bag pockets that flew outward from the body while dancing, and deeply pleated pegged trousers. Such suits were a form of cultural and personal expression for jazz enthusiasts and African American, Latino, Jewish, and other immigrant communities.

DANDY

The early nineteenth century saw the emergence of the dandy—the term given to extremely fashion-conscious men whose style was the height of refined elegance and who favored clothing that accentuated the body. During this period, tail coats were constructed with new and innovative tailoring techniques that manipulated wool fabric into idealized silhouettes, while the front cutaway of the coat and vest above the hips revealed trousers that outlined a man’s physique.

AT-HOME WEAR

In the late seventeenth century, clothing from both the Far East and the Middle East influenced European fashion in the form of the banyan, an informal at-home garment made of silk, linen, or cotton. The T-shape of this banyan resembles the form of a Japanese kimono but is constructed of mordant-painted and resist-dyed cotton produced in India for the European market. Known as chintz or calico in the West, these colorfast, washable textiles were popular imports used for home furnishings and clothing during the first half of the eighteenth century.

CULTURAL INTERSECTIONS

This lounge suit for a European gentleman was made of soft, lightweight cashmere woven in Kashmir, India, that was embellished with silk embroidery prior to being cut and tailored. The patterns feature stylized tulips, leaves, and teardrop shapes with bending tips (called boteh or buta, also known as paisley) often seen on handwoven Kashmir shawls, which were fashionable among European and American women from the mid-eighteenth through the nineteenth century.

JAPANESE DESIGNERS

The Inverness cape, a sleeveless overcoat with an attached cape, was introduced to Japan during the late Edo period (1615–1868), where it was modified with enlarged armholes to accommodate the sleeves of a kimono. Popularly known as tonbi (black hawk), the overcoats were made of imported wool (rasha) and were fashionable during the Taishō (1912–26) and early Shōwa (1926–89) periods among intellectuals, professionals, and the wealthy, who often added a Western-style hat to their kimono ensemble.

With this ensemble, Yusuke Takahashi honored his mentor Issey Miyake’s admiration for Japanese textile traditions by utilizing a clamp-resist dyeing technique known as itajime. Yardage was systematically folded, clamped between two rectangular templates, and placed into a black dye vat. After the dyed fabric was dried and unfolded, select areas that resisted the black dye were printed red or blue and used to create a contemporary fashionable textile that also evokes historic Japanese textiles.

MILITARY WEAR

Army Uniform Ensemble
England, 1799-1800

WORK WEAR

This intriguing denim jacket was crafted in a laser-printing technique called “Wattwash.” This image of a young beggar boy, wearing a coat of a similar blue cloth, is taken from a painting by an anonymous seventeenth-century Italian artist who has been dubbed the “Master of Blue Jeans” for his frequent depiction of denim clothing. The reproduction of this painting on a contemporary jacket demonstrates that denim has in fact had a long history of use and appreciation.

INFORMAL WEAR

Brooks Brothers, an American menswear institution, has fashioned suits and casual attire for two hundred years. In 2007, the clothier partnered with Thom Browne, known for his innovative play with suit proportions, to create the “Black Fleece” collection, blending modern design with traditional dress. A white suit recalls the casual air of light summer suits, yet is updated with matching leg-baring tennis shorts.

ACTIVE WEAR

Constructed with multiple pockets and demonstrating a looser fit than other coats popular at the time, this green shooting jacket and matching vest from the 1840s were considered the optimum uniform by sportsmen. Not only was it made of water-resistant wool/silk velvet, the jacket’s roomier, hip-length cut allowed for greater freedom of movement for the hunt. Initially designed for active wear, the style would evolve into the sack jackets still fashionable today.

FORMAL WEAR

Three-piece Court Suit
France, c. 1760

Full evening dress (also known as “white tie”) originated in the early nineteenth century— in particular, with the evening ensemble of George “Beau” Brummell, an iconic figure in men’s fashion. The white tie ensemble seen here dates from the 1930s; more than a century after Brummell’s heyday its components still include a black tail coat and trousers, set off by a white waistcoat and white bow tie.

CINCHING

Jean Paul Gaultier’s career has been noted for his challenges to fashion’s conventional gender roles. His men’s pinstriped jacket is fitted around the torso with zippers, laces, and shirred elastic thread to emulate a corset. Although sometimes worn by men, corsets have been primarily associated with women throughout the undergarment’s history.

EXPOSING SKIN

By 1850, when men and women were permitted to share public bathing and swimming facilities, appropriate costume became an issue. In the latter part of the century, men’s swimsuits were composed of truncated trousers and a belted shirt. The long tunic and dark colors, which were less revealing than light colors when wet, preserved the wearer’s modesty.

SHEER DRESSING

Carol Christian Poell is known for incorporating unusual materials into his work, including plastics, metal, and human hair. A transparent cardigan jacket knit from plastic tubing undermines both the inherent softness and opacity of yarn, since the garment yields neither concealment nor warmth.

GLITZ

Waistcoat
France, c. 1730

FLORAL

Coat
France, c.1800

COLOR

Coat
Probably Germany, 1720s-30s

Waistcoat
Europe, c. 1730

For the ultrachic dandies (sapeurs) of the Congos, fashion and style are not only a means of self expression, but an artful way of life. Members of la SAPE, an acronym for Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes (Society of Tastemakers and Elegant People), hail largely from Brazzaville and Kinshasa, and abide by a strict code of dress and gentility. Their expensive and eye-catching looks, often purchased from Paris, London, or Milan, are beacons of a sapeur’s pride, work ethic, and ability to save, born from and in spite of the poverty and war surrounding them.