Màmá Àshàké
Màmá Àshàké, the restaurateur who owns and runs Àshàké's Kitchen, sits in the kitchen, donning a white jalabia and turban. While kitchen porters work in the background, she holds onto a casio calculator and notebook for inventory, intermittently supervising her workers in the preparation of the Àmàlà and soups.
Dinning area in Ashake's kitchen (2019)The Centenary Project
Àshàké's Kitchen —a typical bukka
Àshàké's Kitchen, although a major food establishment that offers outdoor and indoor catering services including food delivery packages, is like a grand scale local bukka.
Bukka is coined from the Romanian word "bucataria", which means kitchen. It is typically a small structure designed with sticks or poles and plain single roofs. It is a major feature of Nigeria's street food culture and can be seen at roadsides, street corners and construction sites in the country.
Set up of a local kitchen in Nigeria (2019)The Centenary Project
Ìkòkò irin ati Àdògán
What makes Àshàké's kitchen even more special for the àmàlà preparation is the use of local pots, made by local artisans, and firewood in the preparation of meals. Many indigenous persons prefer the taste of the food prepared with this cookware.
As a result, meal preparation at Àshàké's kitchen is also faster because of the way the firewood conducts heat to reach all sides of the pot at once.
Elubo 'Yam flour' for preparing Amala (2019)The Centenary Project
It all begins with Èlùbó
The most common type of flour for àmàlà is the yam flour, which is also known as the àmàlà isu. Fresh tubers of yam are peeled, sliced and put into boiling water over a period of time, depending on how thick the yam slices are.
The yam slices are only partly cooked, then dried in a dryer. The dried yam slices are then milled directly into flour. Uneven particle sizes are sieved out of the flour, known as èlùbó in Yorùbá language, before it is processed into àmàlà.
Man kneading hot Amala in local pot, 'Kokorin' (2019)The Centenary Project
Àmàlà preparation process
A kitchen porter in Àshàké's kitchen kneads the èlùbó with a turning stick known as omorogùn. As a way of keeping the pot firmly in position while kneading, he carefully uses his feet to hold the bottom of the pot in place.
Steaming hot amala in 'Kokorin' (2019)The Centenary Project
A stiff, smooth dough
The most difficult stage in the àmàlà preparation process is the act of kneading the dough into a smooth paste. To prepare Àmàlà, pour water into a pot and place on a lit burner. Once the water has come to a boil, reduce the heat and add flour, stirring it energetically until the water is completely absorbed.
Amala preparation (2019)The Centenary Project
More hot water
Add more hot water, and leave the dough to simmer for 5 minutes. Knead the dough until it is free of lumps and amasses into one in the pot.
Preparing Ewédú
Àmàlà is popularly consumed with ewédú soup, which is prepared with leaves scientifically known as jute mallow or nalta jute, while gbègìrì is prepared with brown beans and palm oil.
Kitchen porters on duty plucking Ewedu leaves (2019)The Centenary Project
Ewédú blades
Kitchen porters gather around to pick ewédú leaves, separating leaf stalks and branches from the blade.
Only the leaf blades are used in the preparation of ewédú soup.
Ewedu soup (2019)The Centenary Project
Thickness and stickiness
In Ashake's kitchen, ewédú leaves are mashed the traditional way, with the use of a cooking broom known as Ìjábè. The leaves are mashed with a cooking broom to increase the viscosity of the soup and for better consistency.
Preparation
The ewédú leaves are first boiled with a little potash to make them tender. Then, the leaves are mashed with a cooking broom for about five minutes or less. Other ingredients including ground crayfish, fermented locust beans (irú), maggi, salt and pepper are added to the soup as desired.
Ewedu soup (2019)The Centenary Project
Draw soup, the ewédú way
Ewédú soup is one of those soups in Nigeria known as "draw soup" because it pulls and drags as a result of its viscosity, which makes it easy to swallow and fast to consume with solid meals like Àmàlà.
Ewedu soup (2019)The Centenary Project
From cooking pot to dish-bowl
After preparation, Ewédú soup is transferred from the cooking pot into a dish-bowl.
Multiple ways to enjoy Àmàlà
Àmàlà can be eaten with a variety of soups. Two of the most popular, especially among the Yorùbás, are Gbègìrì and Ewédú soups.
Amala, Wheat, Eba, Pounded Yam (2019)The Centenary Project
The black sheep of the "swallow" family
Àmàlà is one version of solid meals or fufu which are popularly called "swallow" in Nigeria. The colloquial term originated as a result of the consumption process of the solid meals which need no chewing before swallowing.
Amala, Gbegiri, Ewedu soup, and stew (2019)The Centenary Project
Àmàlà demands moistness and flavour
Swallows like Àmàlà are bland in taste and demand moistness and flavour for a finger-licking (quite literally, because swallow is locally consumed with the hands), mouth-watering meal. Hence, many natives consume àmàlà with a combination of gbègìrì and ewédú soups with Nigerian tomato stew, known in Yorùbá as Obè ata.
Àmàlà ball
After preparation, Àmàlà is portioned using a saucer known in Yorùbá as Ìgbáko, and wrapped in a small transparent cellophane bag.
Ewédú àti Gbègìrì
The taste of ewédú is salty, leafy, and herby, and when dished with gbègìrì, a mellow taste of beans is added to the mix.
Ewédú àti Obè ata
Àmàlà can also be taken with ewédú and stew (obè ata) prepared to include assorted meets including the edible intestines of cow meat (inú eran or abòdì).
Amala, immersed in Gbegiri, Ewedu soup, and cow meat stew (2019)The Centenary Project
Amala dunk in soup
Many home-grown Nigerians prefer to eat their àmàlà in a soup bowl like this, immersed in a combination of gbègìrì, ewédú soup and cow meat stew for a well-rounded savoury taste.
Curator: Patrick Enaholo / Olúwafisáyọ̀ Ọkàrè
Research: Olúwafisáyọ̀ Ọkàrè
Photography: O'Buchi Multimedia
Text: Olúwafisáyọ̀ Ọkàrè
Text editor: Munachim Amah
Special thanks to:
Mama Ashake
© The Centenary Project
You are all set!
Your first Culture Weekly will arrive this week.