Making Royal Fashion
Unique items that showcase the creative relationship between designer and royal client
Fashion sketch for Queen Elizabeth II (1988) by Ian ThomasHistoric Royal Palaces
Some of Britain's most important fashion designers have crafted the iconic style of members of the royal family. The Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection includes items that show the design and creative process, including sketches, pattern pieces, and prototypes.
Fashion sketch for Queen Elizabeth II (1989) by Ian ThomasHistoric Royal Palaces
They offer a unique view of the creative relationship between designers and their royal clients.
Royal Appointments diary (1958/1958) by Smythson of Bond StreetHistoric Royal Palaces
Royal designers would either come to the palace to meet their royal clients or meetings would happen at the designer’s premises. This book belonging to Norman Hartnell scheduled his appointments with Queen Elizabeth II and other members of the royal family.
Together the designer and royal client would discuss what was needed. They would consider where an outfit was going to be worn, including the climate and any cultural requirements if it was to be worn overseas.
Fashion Sketch (November 1981) by David SassoonHistoric Royal Palaces
Designers created sketches to show their idea. Annotations and fabric samples helped show what the finished garment would be like. This sketch includes an embroidered sari fabric sample to be considered for the dress Diana, Princess of Wales wore to her first State Opening of Parliament.
Fashion Sketch (February 1982) by David SassoonHistoric Royal Palaces
The royal client would then choose which designs they liked from the sketches. They might also give any observations or suggestions for changes. Some sketches in the collection include these written notes, such as this one with ‘This in dark blue please’ written by Diana, Princess of Wales.
Paper pattern for Diana, Princess of Wales' Wedding Dress (1981) by EmanuelHistoric Royal Palaces
Once the design was chosen a pattern would be made to the royal client's measurements, and paper pattern pieces made to cut the fabric. These pattern pieces were for Diana, Princess of Wales's wedding dress.
Toile for Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother's coronation dress (1937) by Madame Handley-SeymourHistoric Royal Palaces
A toile or prototype dress might be made from inexpensive fabric to test the shape and fit. Adjustments could be made by the designer and client before cutting into the expensive fabric of the actual garment. This toile was made for Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother's coronation dress.
Sample wedding shoes for Queen Elizabeth II (1947) by RayneHistoric Royal Palaces
Sample shoes could even be created and sent for fittings to ensure that the whole ensemble came together and achieved the agreed look and style. These prototype shoes were designed by Norman Hartnell, and made by Rayne Shoes for Queen Elizabeth II's wedding outfit.
After one or two fittings to make sure the dress fitted the client perfectly, the finished garment would be delivered and worn to the planned event.
Evening dress worn by Diana, Princess of Wales (1987) by Bruce OldfieldHistoric Royal Palaces
This dress by Bruce Oldfield for Diana, Princess of Wales, was worn for an official visit to Saudi Arabia. The high neckline and long sleeves were designed to be respectful to Middle Eastern culture.
Sample piece of Queen Elizabeth II's coronation robe (1952-53) by Sir Norman Hartnell (1901-79)Historic Royal Palaces
The process of creating an important piece of royal fashion could be a career highlight for a designer, and their workshop of skilled craftspeople. Some designers even created commemorative pieces and samples as souvenirs and to thank the people had invested in their work.
This embroidery sample, showing the floral embroidery that decorated Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation gown, commemorated the most important commission that Hartnell’s studio worked on. It was given to one of his most valued assistants as a thank you for her hard work.
Fashion Sketch (30 July 1981) by David SassoonHistoric Royal Palaces
Discover Six Royal Designers You Should Know to find out more.
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