Balenciaga, the lace magician

A Spanish influence

Born in the Spanish Basque Country and having fled the civil war, Balenciaga moved to Paris in 1936 but kept his first three houses in San Sebastian, Madrid, and Barcelona. Balenciaga would often return to his homeland and maintained a love for its great masters of painting, its deep colors, fine materials and, of course, lace—particularly black lace. In Balenciaga's work, the Iberian influence can be seen not only in the theatricality of the volumes and ornamentation but also in its simplicity, the taste for deep colours and noble fabrics. Lace - and black lace in particular - occupied a privileged place throughout his collections. This cocktail ensemble in a deep black displays a certain severity. As a nod to the wardrobes of Belle Époque fashionistas, and also to religious attire and even bullfighters with their short jackets, the coordinating cape adorns the shoulders with a double lace flounce. The satin bow enhances a modest neckline with its lustre.

Global success

Trained in Spain and England, Balenciaga had a perfect knowledge of Parisian haute couture. Based at 10 Avenue Georges V in Paris—an address which gave its name to a perfume—he soon became a couturier who was open to all the fashions of the world. He began to establish his own style, reusing certain elements from one season to the next. He also restyled traditional pieces, such as the famous bolero and, in 1946, Balenciaga broke new ground with his barrel-line collection. Indeed, he was one of the few couturiers of that time to master sewing and cutting techniques. When Dior’s new look saw strong lines come back into fashion, Balenciaga explored new silhouettes, which were more respectful of the body. Each of his creations hung beautifully, and with the precision of his cuts and his penchant for structural effects, he could not fail.

An outfit for every occasion...

At a time when social obligations punctuated the lives of the wealthy but the lines were becoming less distinct, Balenciaga created different types of outfits to suit the time of day and occasion. For example, lace was used subtly on a morning suit, but for outfits worn in the late afternoon—and particularly those worn for cocktail parties—its use was much more prominent. The dress code for these fashionable events was an ensemble consisting of a dress, which was the key piece, with a coat, cape, or jacket.

...Or an outfit that transforms to suit the occasion

Reminiscent of the transformative clothing fashionable in the 1920s, Balenciaga created pieces that evolved according to the time of day. The concept of the dress and scarf combination did this perfectly. The shoulders and neck would remain covered as was required during a cocktail party only to be revealed for the soirée. He also invented a short evening gown complete with a belt decorated with a bow which could either be worn around the waist or at the bottom of the dress, as shown on this lace and gazar piece made from a sculptural fabric and created especially for him by the house of Abraham.

Evening dress

If there is one piece that is consummately symbolic of Haute Couture, it has to be the evening dress, the virtuoso showpiece for any great fashion house. It is made in varying lengths, its ornamentation and complexity dictated by the importance of the event. The decorative harmony of this 1967 model is inspired by the eighteenth century, a period for which Balenciaga had a particular fondness. Here, he explores its chromatic and ornamental richness through the profusion of floral patterns, worthy of the finest brocades and Indian cottons of that era. Embroidered on tulle, the silky vegetation offers lightness and relief through the play of shadows on the pink satin reverse side.

Dentelle de Calais (Calais Lace)

The exhibition looks back on the old lace makers of Calais, such as Marescot, Dognin, and Brivet, who have long since disappeared. Parisian haute couture was particularly fond of this exceptional fabric. As such, for more than 20 years from the postwar period until the closure of Balenciaga’s houses in 1968, the couturier’s customers from Paris, and from elsewhere in Europe and America, adorned themselves in Dentelle de Calais (The label has changed since 2015, taking the new official designation "Dentelle de Calais-Caudry®").