By Museum of Ethnic Cultures, Minzu University of China
Museum of Ethnic Cultures, Minzu University of China
Miao women use their skill at weaving and their distinctive aesthetic to create brocades that reflect their longing for a better life and convey their pride in the long and rich history of the Miao people.In 2008, the brocade weaving skill of Miao was listed among the traditions to be designated “National Intangible Cultural Heritage” by the Chinese Government.
Part of the Brocade Apron by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
The Brocade Weaving Machine
In the past, almost every Miao household has a brocade weaving machine, the skill of weaving is passed down among generations by women of the family. When a Miao girl gets married, her brocade pieces are an important part of her dowry.
Brocade Weaving Machine by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
Part of the Brocade Weaving Machine 1 by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
Part of the Brocade Weaving Machine 1 by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
Pulling the String by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
String that Pulls Certain Parts of the Weaving Machine by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
The Brocade Weaving Machine that's been Used for Generations by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
Weaving the Brocade
Line after line, colored thread is woven between layers of twill to create a brocade. Locally known as “Woven Flowers”, there are three types of Miao brocades,
“Xijin” is made of pure silk, “Cujin” is made from wool and linen. And “Caijin” blends of cotton and silk.
Profile of the Weaver by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
Near the town of Shidong, on the Qingshui River, local weavers specialize in weaving Caijin.
Passing Through the Weft by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
This kind of brocade weaves a weft of fine silk thread between a warp of rough cotton yarn creating.
Creating the Pattern by Pulling up Certain Warps (feature) by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
The weaver uses a long flat piece of bamboo to pull up some of the warps according to the pattern.
Creating the Pattern by Pulling up Certain Warps 2 by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
Precision is highly required during this process, one missing warp will change the whole pattern.
Wooden Shuttle by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
Then she uses a wooden shuttle to carry a weft through the warps that have been pulled up to create the pattern.
Passing Through the Wooden Shuttle by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
Pressing the Weft Tight by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
In the end, the weaver needs to use Dao Shu (the wooden tool in her hand) and the Zhu Kou (a long comb on the weaving machine) to press the weft tight. Weaving such detailed designs is a painstaking process. A skilled weaver can only complete about an inch of brocade in a day.
Surplus Silk Threads that's been Cut off by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
The overlength of the wefts are cut off and saved for later use.
Brocade Apron
Miao girls learn to weave by watching their mothers at work. When they grow up, they will weave their own brocade apron. Caijin aprons are woven with a basic diamond pattern and these interlocking diamonds are modified to create depictions of people, flowers, animals, and geometric motifs.
Presenting a Finished Brocade Apron by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
The pattern is woven in warm colors, often red, and embellished with purple, green, yellow, and blue.
Brocade Apron and Scissors by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
These colors, alternating cool and warm, create a rhythmic beauty that flows through the cloth, bringing the brocade alive.
Brocade Apron by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
During holidays in the Miao mountain villages, Miao women from all around come dressed in their finest showing off not only their vibrantly embroidered jackets but also their finest brocade aprons.
Weaving Brocade 2 by Austin KramerOriginal Source: http://bwg.muc.edu.cn/
Each Caijin apron is woven by skillful Miao women behind the weaving machine day after day, year after year. Passing on the beauty and history of Miao culture.
In Collaboration with Riverbend Academy of Hmongology, Guizhou, China
--- Exhibition Crew ---
Culture Consultants: Yang Peide, An Hong
Project Coordinator: Cecilia Xiong
Exhibition Curator: Lin Wen (linwen@muc.edu.cn)
Chief Photographer: Austin Kramer
Other Photographers: Huang Xiaohai, Shi Kaibao, Lin Wen
Content Writer: Lin Wen
Translator: Austin Kramer, Li Yi, Liu Qing, Lin Wen
Proofreader: Austin Kramer
Video Clip Editor: Lin Wen
--- Mini Documentary Film Crew ---
Director: Lu Ying
Assistant Director: Zhang Te
Video Photographer: Zhi Yuehui, Zhang Te, Ji Xiang
Film Editor: Lu Ying, Zhi Yuehui, Suiwu Changjun
Script Writer: Yang Peide
Script Editor: Lin Wen
Color Adjust: Zhong Rujie, Zhi Yuehui
Music: Audio Jungle
Recording: Chenguang Recording Studio
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