Għonnella: A Maltese Icon
Explore the elegant, arched Għonnella, a symbol of Maltese heritage and craftsmanship.
By University of Malta
TRACtion Project (Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOP)
X - Ray of the upper part of the Ghonnella (2024-10-24) by Heikki Häyhä (Lecturer and Conservator - Metropolia University of Applied Sciences - Filnand), The University of Malta TRACtion Project Team, Dr. Lorraine Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
Għonnella's X-Ray Secret
Before the stitches and structure, the shape was a ghostly outline captured under X-ray. The Ghonnella’s iconic silhouette begins as a whisper of threads, waiting to be brought to life with centuries of Maltese tradition.
Photograph of Construction the Ghonnella (2024-04-28) by The University of Malta TRACtion Project Team, Dr. Lorraine Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
The Għonnella's Structure
Layer upon layer, we build her story. The fabric—often heavy wool or silk—is cut and prepped, revealing its complex inner life. It’s not just a veil—it’s tailored architecture meant to drape, gather, and gracefully envelope.
Photograph of inside the Ghonnella (2024-04-28) by The University of Malta TRACtion Project Team, Dr. Lorraine Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
Up close, the casing and inner construction reveal a disciplined craft. Tapes and seams ensure the Ghonnella holds her iconic shape—part cloak, part cocoon. Form meets function in every hidden stitch.
Ghonnella Cloak details (2024-06-26) by The University of Malta TRACtion Project Team, Dr. Lorraine Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
Check out that curve! This close-up of the bonnet area shows where physics and fashion flirt. The fabric gathers like a wave about to crash—controlled, curved, and dramatic. The Ghonnella isn't shy—she arrives with flair.
Ghonnella Gathering details (2024-06-26) by The University of Malta TRACtion Project Team, Dr, Lorraine Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
Now that’s a ruche! Elastic tension and careful gathering at the crown create Ghonnella’s signature volume. Consider it the drama queen of sleeves, except it’s an entire hood.
Digital Pattern of the Ghonnella_Part1 (Malta, Mdina; 1920) by Dr. Lorraine Portelli (TRACtion project Coordinator - University of Malta), Ms Nicole Vella (designer), and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
Designing the Ghonnella is like plotting a fabric rollercoaster. The pattern pieces are precise, sliced like a topographical map.
Digital Pattern Making of the Ghonnella_Part2 (2024-02-19) by Ms Nicole Vella (designer), The University of Malta TRACtion Project Team, Dr. Lorrain Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
A little puzzle of elegance—when assembled, it becomes living heritage.
Digital Pattern Making of the Ghonnella_Part3 (2024-02-19) by Ms Nicole Vella (designer), The University of Malta Traction Project Team, Dr. Lorraine Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
Each curve and angle here tells a story. This digital pattern marks the evolution from folk costume to CAD couture. From pen-and-paper to precision software—still stitched with soul.
TRACtion Project Exhibition_Ghonnella (2024-04-28) by The University of Malta TRACtion Project Team, Dr. Lorraine Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
The Għonnella's Elegance
Here she is in all her layered glory! The Ghonnella makes a striking statement on the mannequin—mysterious, elegant, and unmistakably Maltese. The structured folds and ruffled base show how sculptural this garment truly is.
Digitalising the Ghonnella 3D Video (2024-02-29) by Mr Francesco Vella, Principal Officer - Digitalisation Department - Heritage Malta, The Universiyt of Malta TRACtion Project Team, Dr. Lorraine Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
Still photos can’t capture her full glory, so here she is in motion! This 3D video lets you glide around the Ghonnella and see how every fold and curve work together. It is more than fabric; it is a fluid sculpture with centuries of drama.
TRACtion Project_Ghonnella on a mannequin (0028-04) by The University of Malta TRACtion Project Team, Dr. Lorraine Portelli, and Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOPUniversity of Malta
So, next time you see a Ghonnella, do not just nod and say, “Cool cloak.” Respect the layers, the stitches, and the silent swish. She is Malta’s most fashionable time traveler—no time machine needed, just good tailoring and a lot of attitude.
The Għonnella Lives On… in Shadows and Swirls
You have followed the folds of the Għonnella—its elegance, mystery, and quiet strength.
But here is the twist: the Għonnella never really left.
Though gone from daily life, it lives on in every dramatic shawl toss, every whispered glance behind lace.
It is more than fabric; it is an attitude.
So, wrap your imagination in silk and take a final twirl.
The Għonnella is waiting for you just around the corner.
TRACtion Project (Grant Agreement - 101099726 - TRACtion - CREA-CULT-2022-COOP)
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