A Guided Tour of the Presqu'Ile District in Lyon

IMMEUBLE DE L'HÔTEL ROYAL

At the corner of the square and at the junction with Rue de la Charité, the rotunda building is the Royal Hotel which was designed by Léon Delaroche. It was originally called Hôtel de Bellecour. Admire the angle treated as a rotunda.

IMMEUBLE THIBIÈRE

Now observe the lateral development of the eastern facade of the Immeuble Thibière. This facade is the work of the architect Thibière who realised it in 1814. It follows in the wake of Robert de Cotte’s monumental facades of Place Bellecour with four levels, the same rhythm and floor area ratio but without the curved windows, the composite order and the large triangular pediment.

IMMEUBLE 68 RUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE

The building at No. 68, on the corner, is a building of Joseph Ricour and was completed in 1861. The cast iron elements boost the horizontal divisions and darken the white facades. On the street side facade, you can see the importance of the balcony.

On the main floor, the balcony gives shape to the central part and, as a penthouse balcony, stresses the summit; it continues on the rounded corner on the top floor. Note the top of the facade extends the overall composition by the addition of a floor in the roof which becomes a full floor in itself (visible through the skylights).

IMMEUBLE 85 RUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE

In 1894, the newspaper "Le Progres" left Place de la Charité to install the headquarters 85 rue de la République (Imperial Street at that time). Building with two caryatids in front. Today, this building is occupied by the Fnac Bellecour.

IMMEUBLE PATHÉ

The imposing building on your right is the building of the Pathé cinema. This building, designed in 1932, is remarkable because it is a rare example of the Art Deco style in Lyon. It occupies the site of the former Kursaal casino. Look at the cock at the top which is the Pathé emblem.

PASSAGE DE L'ARGUE EST

You are at the entrance of a covered passage built in 1826 by architects Farge and Falconnet on a spot where houses and a former gold and silver spinning workshop stood. Look at the Rue de la République entrance and its majestic Palladian stone arch.

The passage is covered with a metal canopy in the Parisian style and is lined with shops with floors above. In the central rotunda there used to be a winged Mercury, now disappeared, protector of merchants and travellers. It was a copy of a Renaissance sculpture by Giambologna.

IMMEUBLE 28 RUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE

This building is an example of the work of Fryderyk Giniez: one finds here the neo-Byzantine influence of the architect, an example of the Orientalist movement in Lyon instigated by the architect Pierre Bossan (Fourviere Basilica). This influence can be particularly seen in the bay frames. In Lyon, there are a lot of wall bays; it is a real feature of Lyon's architecture.

There are more empty bays than full; decorations and framework break up the monotony of the bare walls. The abundance of bays had gradually faded out by the late nineteenth century.

IMMEUBLE 33 RUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE

This building, designed by the architect Baudet, is an example of the use of wrought iron that breaks the monotony of the stone façade. At the time, metal was the most modern material. From the mid-nineteenth century onwards industrial art enhanced the quality of buildings with its decorative modernity such as the ornamental cast iron which was used from the early nineteenth century.

Iron work even incorporates the principles of hierarchy and the register of stone sculpture. You will find it here in the railing, pelmets and balconies.

IMMEUBLE 24 RUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE

Number 24 was created by Frédéric Giniez. He was the architect of nine other buildings in this street. Note the quality and care taken in the decoration and the choice of materials. For this building, the front door is particularly noteworthy for its decorations.

The door is placed in an arcade recess with a semicircular entablature. The stone tympanum is decorated with two seated cherubs. The sculptures of cherubs, griffins or even faces are very common in Lyon private architecture. It is a real local particularism which attracted several sculptors to move to Lyon.

GRAND BAZAR

The building to your right with the glass facades in front of you was built in 2005 by architects JeanPierre Buffi and Philippe de Fouchier on the spot of Lyon’s first late nineteenth-century department store which has unfortunately been destroyed. It was first called “A la ville de Lyon” and was built in 1886. A more recent version of two storeys was completed in 1913.

LIEU DE L'ASSASSINAT DE SADI CARNOT

At the southwest corner of the Palais du Commerce, you are standing at the place where the President Sadi Carnot was assassinated on 24 June 1894 by the Italian anarchist. A plate and a red footplate on the ground recall the event.

PALAIS DU COMMERCE

Built between 1855 and 1862 by the architect and sculptor René Dardel Gustave Bonnet at the request of the prefect Vaïsse, the Palais du Commerce is typical of the Second Empire. It was inaugurated in 1862 by Napoleon III. The building has a rich sculpted decoration dedicated to the economic and social life.

The monumental achievements of Gustave Bonnet adorn the north and south facades. The Corbeille room is the highlight inside the building and is richly decorated with an ornate ceiling, an allegory of the City of Lyon. The four corner pavilions are organised around this room. The palace now houses the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Lyon.

ÉGLISE SAINT-BONAVENTURE

St. Bonaventure Church was built between 1327 and 1471 by the Cordeliers’ Franciscans order in a late Gothic style with an unusual north-south axis to protect it from the Rhône floods. Its name comes from a General of the Franciscan order who died in 1274 during the Second Ecumenical Council of Lyon.

The transformation of the fifteenth-century façade was linked to a comprehensive renovation project in the area which no longer corresponded to the fourteenth-century sober facade; something that was much criticized in the nineteenth century.

ANCIENS GRANDS MAGASINS DES CORDELIERS

The triangular building is the former Cordeliers Department Stores built at the time of the Grolée district reconstruction in 1890. The three edifices together make a total of 2680 sq m. The original buildings were for bourgeois homes with shops on the ground floor. In 1895 a company was formed which evolved in 1899 to become the 'Department Stores des Cordeliers.

In 1919, the store became Galeries Lafayette. For its present appearance, work began in 1924 under the direction of Georges Trévoux, architect of the City of Lyon, and Ferdinand Chanut architect Galeries Lafayette. Sculptors who participated are Bertola, Chorel, Larrivé and Renard.

IMMEUBLE 51 RUE DE LA BOURSE

At numbers 51 and 57, the building facades were designed between 1858 and 1859 by the architects C. Echernier and L.-Et. Journoud. They illustrate the principle of multiple storeys, rare in Lyon, where an additional floor is placed above the other and sticks out from under the roof awning.

IMMEUBLE 16 RUE DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE

This building, formerly a grand hotel for foreigners, designed by Frédéric Giniez, is particularly impressive due to its axial span. On three floors, Corinthian or ringed columns frame the bays. Note also the wealth of carved decorations, such as the lions' heads on the consoles of the first floor balcony. The decorations on the wooden door are also interesting. Until very recently, this building housed the Bank of France. Now take Rue de la Poulaillerie to the left of the building.

MUSÉE DE L'IMPRIMERIE

The name of the street, Rue de la Poulaillerie, is related to the sales of poultry in the Middle Ages. At number 13, you will find the printing museum, a great testimony to the time when printing was one of the main activities of Lyon. It is located in the former Crown Hotel, the first City Hall of Lyon, which was built in the fifteenth century.

Look at the driveway, the galleries and the Maurice Scève courtyard. It is possible to cut through to the Rue des Forces. Continue right, towards the north, on to Rue President Edouard Herriot.

PASSAGE MÉNESTRIER

The covered Claude-François Ménestrier Passage owes its name to a Jesuit and historian born in Lyon 10 March, 1631. Designed by the Jesuit architect, Father Martellange, it runs through the Ampere school buildings, formerly Trinity College founded in 1519, and connects Rue de la Bourse to the Quai Jean Moulin. The nearby Trinity Chapel was the site of the first Italian republic proclaimed by Napoleon on 18 January, 1802. Continue to Quai Jean Moulin.

IMMEUBLE 9 QUAI JEAN MOULIN

This twentieth-century building of apartments of the Soierie Rosset was designed by architect and sculptor Georges Curtelin Louis Bertola in 1934. Its two towers, inspired by American skyscrapers, contrast with the peninsula skyline.

OPÉRA, PLACE DE LA COMÉDIE

Walk towards the Place de la Comédie. The Opera on your right is on the spot of the original theatre built by Jacques-Germain Soufflot in 1756 and renovated by A.-M. Chenavard between 1825 and 1831. An extension was completed in 1990 by the architect Jean Nouvel.

Of neoclassical architecture, the facade has a ground floor arcade, a main floor and a penthouse strip with sphinx heads which are connected by garlands of foliage and antique theatre masks. The whole is surmounted by eight statues of muses. They are traditionally nine, but the need for a symmetric span meant the exclusion of Urania, the muse of astronomy.

HÔTEL DE VILLE

You are now facing the Town Hall. The construction and decorations started in 1646, according to the plans of Simon Maupin, and were completed in 1672. On 13 September, 1674, a fire destroyed the building. It was partially restored by Robert de Cotte in 1680. A new restoration was launched in 1700 and the Consulate called in Hardoin Jules Mansart, architect of the Château de Versailles.

The main body facing the Place des Terreaux was raised, the roofs were changed and an almost horizontal perspective was established, in harmony with the Palace of Saint Peter. After 1793, new restorations were completed by the prefect Vaïsse. Note that the City Hall includes a beautiful suspended spiral staircase.

PALAIS SAINT-PIERRE

The former convent of the nuns of St. Peter became the Museum of Fine Arts in 1801. Inspired by Italian references, the building consists of four wings arranged around a cloister. In 1792, the abbey became a conservation centre of paintings, medals and other art objects. Throughout the nineteenth century, the building served several functions: art and archeology museum, School of Fine Arts, City Library, Stock Exchange, Chamber of Commerce, ...

Today, Lyon’s Museum of Fine Arts of is one of the largest and finest in France and Europe and is open every day except Tuesdays and public holidays from 10am to 6pm. Walk in front of the building and turn left Rue Paul Chenavard.

MUR PEINT, RUE DE LA PLATIÈRE

Facing you is the painted wall "The Library of the City." It was produced by the Cité de la Création and figures Lyon writers, such as Frédéric Dard, and excerpts from their writings. On the ground floor, three shops and a postman in trompe l'oeil are represented. Painted walls have become a symbol of the city and are the third reason why tourists visit Lyon after Fourvière and Old Lyon. Then take Quai de la Pêcherie on the left.

IMMEUBLE 7 RUE CHAVANNE

This 1851 building could be the work of the architect Claude-Anthelme Benoit. The composition is indeed reminiscent of 22 rue Constantine. The façade offers an abundance of carved decorations and ironwork (shells, lion’s muzzle, human head etc..). Everything is structured by a superposition of composite order columns.

IMMEUBLE DESJARDINS, 13 RUE CHAVANNE

For this residential building, leased by AD Blanchon and built in 1850, the architect Tony Desjardins chose to apply the neo-Gothic style. The Gothic Revival (1830-1880) was denoted for its taste for medieval and romantic style. At the time there was a glorification of the Middle-Ages and Gothic architecture. Contrary to neoclassicism, neo-Gothic was the expression of feelings.

Artists sought to revive medieval forms to compete with the dominant classical styles of the time. Here, you will find this style in the sculpture, the moldings and the ornamentation including flamboyant ogives, but there are also some classic mouldings such as rosettes.

IMMEUBLE FARFOUILLON, 1 RUE MERCIÈRE

This building was designed by François-Jacques Farfouillon in 1846 at the request of the merchant Jean-Pierre Lempereur. The architect referred to classic Renaissance architecture as witnessed by the Italian influences in the treatment of the bays, entablatures and inlay work: dentils, palmettes, rosettes. The three street façades were treated identically. At its completion, the building was considered one of the most remarkable of its time. It has even been compared to the work of the Italian architect Bramante.

ÉGLISE SAINT-NIZIER

Saint Nizier gave his name to the church at the end of the sixth century. The vaulting was carried out during the fifteenth century. The magnificent central half-rotunda gate by Jean Vallet is of the Renaissance (1579). Admire the spherical dome decorated with faces of angels and God the Father holding the globe.

As for the central and southern parts of the facade, they were completed in the nineteenth century in a neo-Gothic style by Claude-Anthelme Benedict who undertook the restoration of the church. The triangular gable is inspired by St. John's Cathedral. The New flamboyant openwork spire was made according to the finest examples of architecture in northern France.

PASSAGE DES IMPRIMEURS, 56 RUE MERCIÈRE

This passage, narrow and original, leads between 56 Rue Mercière and 26 Quai Saint-Antoine. Half of this “traboule” is covered, the other is open. It is dedicated to the printers who came to Lyon in the fifteenth century from Germany and Italy.

RUE DE LA MONNAIE

Proceed to Rue de la Monnaie which is of a slight circular shape. It dates from the late MiddleAges and takes its name from the Hotel de la Monnaie, a mint workshop in the fifteenth century. It was also called Temple Street.

HÔTEL D'HORACE CARDON

Stop at 68 Rue Mercière and go into the courtyard, which opens on to the street, of the hotel Horace Cardon, treasurer of King Henry IV. Admire the beautiful Renaissance building: large arches on the ground floor, a three-storey bay to the right and four floors and windows whose mullions have disappeared.

PASSAGE DE L'ARGUE OUEST

Now turn left at the second part of Passage de l’Argue towards Rue President Edouard Herriot. Originally one passage, it was halved in 1863. Just like the eastern past, the western part of the passage is covered by a metal glass ceiling and comprises shops throughout its length. Turn right towards Rue Edouard Herriot then right again towards the Place des Jacobins in the south.

IMMEUBLE 79 RUE PRÉSIDENT EDOUARD HERRIOT

Observe the composition of the facade of 79 Rue Edouard Herriot. The entrance porch is part of an axial span which dominates the entire facade. A porch occupies an important role in the work of architects and is therefore often profusely decorated to announce the identity of the building.

Note that the two neighbouring buildings are symmetrical on either side of number 79 and have beautiful caryatids.

IMMEUBLE CHATRON, PLACE DES JACOBINS

On the other side of the square and designed by J. Chatron, this beautiful rotunda building with a slate roof is particularly ornate. A stone balcony is in front of the floors where the two central rectangular and arched windows are stacked in pairs and separated by Corinthian columns.

This composition is repeated on the lateral facades. Admire the pink stone and the attention paid to the carved decorations. In the north-east of the square, take the Rue Jean Fabre to reach the Place des Célestins.

FONTAINE DES JACOBINS

The fountain in the centre of the square was constructed between 1878 and 1885 by Gaspard André. In an eclectic style, it represents the creative genius of the city of Lyon and honours four artists: Philibert de l'Orme (1510-1570 architect), Gérard Audran (1640-1703 engraver), Guillaume Coustou (1677 – 1746 sculptor) and Hippolyte Flandrin (1809-1864 painter).

IMMEUBLE 4 PLACE DES JACOBINS

This is the home of the painter Paul Borel built by Frédéric Borel Giniez and Pierre Bossan in 1863. Observe the treatment of stone and wood for the front door. As at 79 Rue Edouard Herriot, you can see how the system of the axial span organises the rest of the facade and admire the neo-Byzantine influences of both architects.

THÉÂTRE DES CÉLESTINS

The theatre was built between 1873 and 1877 by Gaspard André and was rebuilt identically after a fire in 1881. It has undergone some changes but its original machinery is intact (hangers, grills ...). The great Italian auditorium has a ceiling painted by Joanny Domer. In the early twentieth century comedies were held here and the Theatre des Celestins was the first comedy theatre after Paris, the capital.

The Saône side of the former monastery façade was restored by JA Morand. The interiors were done by the painter Joanny Domer: the auditorium is decorated with a ceiling dedicated to Aristophanes, author of Greek comedies.

IMMEUBLES 9-10 PLACE DES CÉLESTINS

The building at N° 9 was executed by the business man R. Feuga and property owner P. Mathieu in 1822 and then sold to a merchant of Paris in 1827. The originality of the façade is in the French windows which are crowned with a frieze, decorated with a smooth table and a cornice, and supported by flat consoles that extend to reveal the window-frames in the eighteenth-century style.

Built in 1811, N° 10 offers a smooth base and tall rectangular bays of the new style. On the upper floors, the link between the cornice ceiling and the bay supports accentuates the verticality fashionable in the eighteenth century.

GRAND IMMEUBLE PLACE ANTONIN GOURJU

This corner building has two front side rails and a certain originality in the treatment of its bays. Look at the bays on the top floor: they are semicircular which, combined, form a series of arches. They are used in conjunction with rectangular bays.

IMMEUBLE 8 RUE DU PLAT

This building, an example of many on the Rue du Plat, is a twin of N° 10. It has an oval courtyard like a private hotel. You are looking at the prestigious architecture of the eighteenth century, typical of the southern residential area of the Place Bellecour. Turn left at Rue Paul Lintier and regain the Place Bellecour.

IMMEUBLES OUEST PLACE BELLECOUR

On your left, you can see the monumental facades of west Bellecour. Destroyed in 1793, the east and west facades designed by Robert de Cotte had to be re-erected. The goal was to restore the setting of the equestrian statue of Louis XIV which had just been reinstalled. Thus, the reconstruction of the facades was done in a spirit of restoration of the eighteenth century.

The two monumental facades cover ten buildings juxtaposed to form one unit, 150 meters long with five backyards. The architects, the brothers Hotelard, specialists of Neoclassicism, were responsible for the project.

STATUE DE LOUIS XIV, PLACE BELLECOUR

The statue in the centre of the square is an equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIV represented in the antique style (Louis XIV has no stirrups). The original was made in 1715 by Martin Desjardins but the current statue is of François-Frédéric Lemot, 1825. This work is the sole survivor of Desjardins’ work destroyed during the French Revolution.

The statues on the bronze pedestal represent the Rhône and the Saône and were realized by Guillaume and Nicolas Coustou between 1719 and 1721. They were preserved during the Revolution and kept in safekeeping at the Hotel de Ville. Note that the Rhône is often represented by a bearded man. The tour is now over. Thank you.