Champaner - Gujarat's Abandoned Capital

The city of Champaner in Gujarat, an hour’s drive from Vadodara, was once a flourishing capital of the Sultans of Gujarat in the 15th century CE. Today, it is a city in ruins and frozen in time. This is interesting because the Sultans of Gujarat ruled for less than 200 years. They were overrun by the army of Mughal Emperor Humayun in 1535 CE, and yet their city was left untouched - making Champaner, one of the finest examples of pre-Mughal Islamic architecture in this part of India. But Champaner and the area around it hold many other secrets too!

The original city at Champaner, on the foot of the Pavagadh hills, was built by Vanraj Chavda in 746 CE. In 1484 CE, Champaner-Pavagadh was captured by Sultan Mahmud Begada, a ruler of the Sultanate of Gujarat. Mahmud Begada (1458 CE – 1511 CE) expanded the sultanate’s boundaries to its greatest extent. His armies conquered the islands that make up today's Mumbai, from local rulers and also sacked the Parsi settlement of Sanjan in modern-day Gujarat.

A must-see among the buildings at Champaner are the remains of seven mosques, of which the Jama Masjid built in 1523 CE is the most elaborate. The mosque has a perfectly proportioned dome and a richly ornamented exterior with 172 pillars and minarets soaring 30 meters, making it one of the finest Islamic monuments in western India.

The palace structures that were built are now in ruins. But the engineering prowess of the builders is still evident. For instance, the Champaner complex had an elaborate water management system that was based on concepts like rainwater harvesting, something we still talk about. Manmade lakes, reservoirs, wells, channels and underground cisterns ensured a steady supply of water despite the arid land.  The hauz or water tank at the Jama Masjid is ornate, with eight sides and triangular steps leading down.

While Champaner formed part of the dominions of different dynasties and empires over the centuries, the structures built by Mahmud Begada remained untouched. Even though the site earned international recognition when it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004, few venture to this city that hides so many wonders.

Much of Champaner lies in ruins and it is  a treasure trove, still  waiting to be discovered!