1900: A Story about Changes of Women´s Fashion

Art Nouveau attire reflected the women´s emancipation and feminist movements

Two-piece afternoon dress, 1902–1903. Marie Hansal, K.U.K. Hoflieferant, Vienna (1902/1903) by Marie Hansal, K.U.K. Hoflieferant, WienMuseum of Decorative Arts In Prague

The new wasp waist silhouette: "goose chest"

The Exposition Universelle in Paris, 1900 presented the contemporary style style forming the distinctive S-shaped outline, a parallel of sorts to the curvilinear forms of Art Nouveau ornamentation. 

The Art Nouveau silhouette was based on the female body, but was far from natural. Achieving a natural look was still obstructed by the persistent corset, that torture device which irreversibly impaired women´s bodies.

Corset labelled "Radical", c. 1905, Federer & Piesen, Prague, c. 1905, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Corset labelled "Radical", c. 1905. From behind, Federer & Piesen, Prague, c. 1905, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Morning jacket and petticoat, after 1911, Braun, K.U.K. Hoflieferant, Berlin–Vienna–Karlsbad, c. 1911, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Morning jacket, after 1911, Braun, K.U.K. Hoflieferant, Berlin–Vienna–Karlsbad, 1911, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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During the Art Nouveau period, the dress code of a woman from the middle and upper classes was bound by a prescribed etiquette that determined the type of clothes appropriate for many different occasions. A woman´s wardrobe was made up of a morning negligé, at home dress, a walking costume, a dress for an errand, afternoon dresses for making and accepting visits, a tea-gown, as well as salon, dinner and theatre dresses, and ball gowns.

Summer suit, c. 1910, Lavirière Robes-Manteaux Paris, c. 1910, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Summer suit, c. 1910. Detail, Anna Renner, Neue Markt, Vienna, c. 1910, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Walking dress with bolero jacket, 1902–1903, G. & E. Spitzer K.U.K. Hoflieferant, Vienna, 1902/1903, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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"Costume de Trotteut". Walking outfit, 1908 – 1910 (1908/1910) by Lavirière Robes-Manteaux ParisMuseum of Decorative Arts In Prague

English Tailor-made Fashion is coming

With the progress of women´s emancipation, English tailor-made fashion reached the European continent in 1880th and with it the women´s suit composed of a skirt, jacket and blouse. In early 20th century, suits either assumed a simple form of comfortable walking outfit.

Blouse, c. 1905, Rudolf Konečný "English Costume Specialist", Holešov, c. 1905, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Cape, 1900–1910, neznámý, 1900/1910, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Ball Gown, 1910–1912. Detail (1910/1912) by L & H. Laufer. K.U.K. Hoflieferant, ViennaMuseum of Decorative Arts In Prague

New silhouette: an elegant, relaxed and natural

Around 1906, French designers introduced a new aesthetic principle into women´s conventional fashion. This trend drew on reminiscences of garments of the French Directoire and Empire styles, combined with Orientalist inspirations, namely Japanese clothing.

Ball Gown with Tunic, 1912–1913. L & H. Laufer. K.U.K. Hoflieferant, Vienna, L & H. Laufer, K.U.K. Hoflieferant, Wien, 1912/1913, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Ball Gown with Tunic, 1912–1913. Detail, 1910/1912, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Formal dress, c. 1910, Helene Neumann, Wollzeile, Vienna, c. 1910, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Hat, c. 1912, Last Novelty, England, c. 1912, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Girardi hat, 1898, unknown, 1898, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Hat, 1900–1905, unknown, 1900/1905, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Hats

Summer bar shoes, 1900–1910, F. et E. Kompert, Prague, 1900/1910, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Evening court shoes, c. 1910, H. Bauer, K.U.K. Hoflieferant, Vienna, c. 1910, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Lace-up boots, c. 1900, unknown, 1900/1910, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Shoes

Lace fan decorated with iris and fuchsia motifs, 1900–1910, unknown, c. 1913, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Glove case, 1900–1910, August Klein, Vienna, 1900/1905, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Belt Clasp, c. 1900, neznámý, c. 1900, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Purse, Unknown, propably Prague, 1907/1907, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Handbag, c. 1900, neznámý, c. 1900, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Accessories

Ring, Marie Křivánková, 1910/1912, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Brooche, Josef Ladislav Němec, 1900/1902, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Necklace, Marie Křivánková, 1910/1912, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Necklace, Marie Křivánková, 1910/1912, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Brooch, Franta Anýž, 1910/1910, From the collection of: Museum of Decorative Arts In Prague
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Credits: Story

Eva Uchalová, curator of fashion department

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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