Holy Kebab: Keeping Saint Abul Haggag's Legacy Alive

Kebab Abul Haggag is a special dish served during the annual Moulid celebration of Abul Haggag in Luxor, Egypt. Moulids are day long commemorations to a local Saint. Moulids are often celebrated by thousands of followers who travel from afar to honor the Saint, and are therefore received by the locals as honored guests. People who live in the area feed the Saint guests as a way of paying tribute to their Saint. 
  
Kebab Abul Haggag is the main meal served at the Moulid, and rarely eaten throughout the year. The recipes lies within the hands of the few women who keep the humble and generous spirit of their Saint alive in serving thousands of his followers until this day. 

Yousef ben Abdel Rahim ben Eessa el Zahed, later known as Abul Haggag, was a Muslim scholar and teacher who grew up during the Abbasid dynasty. Born in the early part of the sixth Islamic century in Baghdad, he didn’t continue his father’s path in official employment of the Khalif, but dedicated his life to learning. He went to Alexandria to study with the Sufis of the Shazelyya and learnt about the Refa’yya traditions. He also traveled to Luxor to study with Sheikh Abdel Raheem el Qenawy.  

Abul Haggag settled in Luxor, and gained a reputation for his wisdom and piety. By the time he died in 1244 he was over 90 years old and had amassed a large following in Luxor. He lived within the ruins of the ancient Egyptian temple of Ramses II.  

Saint Abul Haggag' Moulid is celebrated over five days annually and includes special rituals, activities and food. People young and old, women and men gather in front of the mosque. They purchase sweets and participate in or watch stick-fight dancing and dancing horses. A large horse and camel procession tours the whole city of Luxor, while followers sing religious chants.  

The celebration takes place in the middle of Sha’baan, the lunar month before Ramadan. People who live near the mosque, offer food for all the visitors of the Moulid. They always serve “Kebab Abul Haggag”. 

The women make vast amount of kebab el amh, which in Arabic specifies that the kebab is made from wheat not meat. 

Salt, pepper, coriander and cayenne are added to the mix. 

What keeps the kebab balls moist is a basic onion stock. Onions are roughly cut but very soft. A hefty amount of chopped dill and green coriander are added fresh. 

The ingredients are hand mashed, and shaped into small balls. 

If the family is more well off, then they might add minced meat and fry the kebabs in butter, ghee or oil.  

Overtime, some additions has been introduced to the old dish. Some people add bone marrow broth instead of boiling the kebab in water.