In the Women's Quarters  규방

001 Samhoijiang JeogoriLate 19th centuryLength 22, Length-s, 70.2, Width-c 42.This is a samhoijiang jeogori with a dangkogit, a collar with acurved and pointed end. This particular samhoijiang jeogori isdouble layered with a light green bodice while the gussets atthe armpit, collar, and goreum are burgundy in color. The totalhem length of this jeogori is only 22cm, which is consideredvery short. Below the armpits, side seam splits appear fromthe 1 cm mark. However, since the hemline trim is curved,certain parts are even shorter than from the armpits.삼회장 저고리19세기 후반길이 22, 화장 70.2, 품 42당코깃의 겹저고리인데, 연두색 길에 깃, 끝동, 곁마기, 고름을자주색으로 한 삼회장저고리이다. 저고리의 총 길이가 22cm으로 매우 짧고, 겨드랑이점 아래로 옆솔기를 만들기는 하였으나 도련을 곡선처리하면서 겨드랑이점 보다 더 짧은 부분도 있다.Jeogori, Short JacketThe word “jeogori” fi rst appears in the annals of the Joseondynasty (Joseon Wangjo Sillok) around 1420, the second yearof King Sejong’s reign during the Joseon dynasty. Prior to this,the words “Yu (襦),” “Sam (衫),” and “Ui (衣)” were used.From antiquity to the present day, the jeogori is consideredunisex attire. During the Three Kingdoms period, menand women’s jeogori came down to the hip without much differencebetween genders; however, during the Unifi ed Silladynasty, women’s jeogori were shortened and the resultingdan-ui (短衣) were worn.Subsequently, following this new trend, new differences inlength appeared. Although the Joseon dynasty’s men’s jeogoridid not change much below the waistline, from the mid-Joseondynasty to approximately 1900, the women’s jeogori was shortenedto reveal women’s bust lines.저고리저고리란 말은 조선 세종 2년(1420)의 실록에 처음 보이는데그 이전에는 유(襦), 삼 (衫), 의(衣) 등으로 사용되었다. 고대부터 현대까지 남녀공용의 옷으로 착용되고 있는데 삼국시대까지는 엉덩이까지 내려오는 길이의 남녀 저고리 형태에 큰 차이가 없으나 통일신라시대 여자 저고리에서 길이가 짧은 ‘단의(短衣)’가 착용되어지고, 이후 시대의 흐름에 따라 길이의 변화가 있어 왔다. 조선시대 남자저고리는 허리아래길이에 변함이 없으나, 여자저고리는 조선중기 이후 1900년경까지 가슴이드러날 정도로 점차 짧아지고, 20세기 들어와 가슴선 아래의편안한 길이로 정착하였다.

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