This spectacular long Kashmiri shawl contains a complicated, yet perfectly balanced arrangement of the "tree of life" motif. The borders are of intricate twill or kani weave with colourful motifs, while the central black rectangle holds smaller versions of the same motif in pastel tones. Kaniis a special technique of weaving introduced in Kashmir by the Mughals in the 17thcentury. Small wooden sticks called kaniare used to weave this intricate piece. The weaving has been meticulously regulated by a coded pattern, known as the ‘Talim’ drawn by the naqash to guide the weaver.