Macchh Ki Suiyan -Installation

A Macchh ki Suiyan or fish-bone motif repeats to create a textured trellis on this fabric, a particular variety of brocade from Varanasi called Tanchoi. The Tanchoi is satin-based, and its structure is believed to have Chinese origins. It was woven in the 19th century in Gujarat in western India, and its absorption into the Varanasi repertory is believed to be from early to mid 20th century onwards. The textile was commissioned for the Visvakarma exhibition on the theme of the Jaali presented in 1987-88 in Moscow.

This textile is done using a jacquard design technique that allows for intricate, detailed patterns to be woven into the fabric, and the use of pure silk as the base adds to the luxurious feel and appearance of the textile. As mentioned in the book of Hand Crafted Indian Textiles, the traditional macchh ki suiyan (fish-bone) motif, about four inches tall, is an interesting design element that helps to create the trellis pattern on the panel. This panel was created for an exclusive textile exhibition in the USSR in 1987-88 as part of the Festival of India collection and was inspired by the perforated stone screens that decorate the buildings of medieval India. The use of a single colour for the warp and weft threads creates a more subtle, monochromatic effect in the trellis pattern, adding to the overall aesthetic of the panel.