Mandarin surcoat and collar

During the government of imperial China, mandarins were divided into civil and military officials, both consisting of nine ranks. The rank of the official was indicated by the motif on a square-shaped badge, sewn on the front and back of a surcoat. The badges of civil mandarins were decorated with birds, whereas those of military mandarins had depictions of animals.
Overseas Chinese merchants and traders who made their fortune were appointed by the Dutch Indies government as leaders of the Peranakan Chinese community, with titles as ‘Kapitein’, ‘Majoor’, or ‘Luitenant’. By obtaining this title they gained the privilege to wear a mandarin robe, including the rank badge. Historic photographs show Peranakan Chinese grooms dressed in mandarin costume on their wedding.
The surcoat illustrated here is made of damask silk in a dark purple colour and has the rank badge of a civil mandarin embroidered in gold-wrapped thread. This surcoat has a separate collar and was worn over a robe. A hat and boots completed the costume.

Kalimantan; early 20th century; silk, gold-wrapped thread, synthetic dyes