Meet the Masalas

The history of spices being used in Pakistani food is perhaps as old as the first human settlements found in the Mohenjo-Daro and Harappan valley civilizations. While spice usage has varied over time and place, and in fact rapidly developed and expanded locally, the procurement and preparation of some spices has dramatically changed too.

The basic spices present in almost every Pakistani household, no matter which part of the world they are in, are red chilis, either crushed or powdered, turmeric, coriander and cumin. Nigella seeds, cardamom, bay leaves and cloves are also commonly used in more complex recipes such as biryanis, qormas and certain vegetable dishes.

Pakistani food is known to be aromatic, spicy, packed full of flavor and herbs, primarily because many spices and herbs are produced in the country.

Red chili powder, coriander, black pepper, turmeric, cumin, cloves and cardamoms are basic whole spices thanks to which spice mixes such as Garam Masala and Chaat Masala are made and used generously in local cuisine.

A dish as basic as Dal (lentils) is fragrant and packed full of flavor thanks to the spices added to it.

However, the use of spices and herbs does not necessarily translate into peppery or chili heavy food per se. Spicy food is more commonly consumed in the southern regions of Pakistan, and as one travels north this tendency for fiery fare gives way to simpler and milder methods of spicing.

This does not mean food becomes less flavorful - spice blends change according to geographical locations and climates, local palates, as well as the availability of locally produced spices. For example, lamb chops - a favorite barbecue item found throughout Pakistan - in the south of the country is found to be more spicy, whereas in the northern sphere of Peshawar is simply grilled with salt and black pepper, allowing the intense flavor of the meat to come through.

From the 1940s up until the 1970s, Pakistani households mostly made their own spice blends at home.

Whole spices were purchased from local vendors in markets, after which the ladies of the household would create their own spice mixtures with recipes passed down from generations.

From the pounding of coriander seeds and chilies, to making the more complex garam masalas and individual spice blends for specific recipes, (such as qormas and biryanis) women prided themselves on the magic they could create in their kitchens with their family recipes.

However, those who are passionate about their food can still be found buying their own whole spices and creating their own spice mixes at home.