Always On The Move
Arnaud de Rosnay's Dynamic Photography: Dive into a world of movement and adventure though his lens.
By Condé Nast Archive
By Ivan Shaw
Marisa Berenson in Livio de Simone Caftan, Vogue (1968-01-01) by Arnaud de RosnayCondé Nast Archive
Arnaud de Rosnay
along with his brother Joël, was always pushing boundaries—both physically and professionally. In 1957, the two were among the first to surf the Basque coast of France, and are credited in Wikipedia with participating in the introduction of skateboarding to France in 1966.
Not surprising, Arnaud won the first French skateboarding championship. Eleven years later, Arnaud would actually invent a sport, speed sailing, a combination of windsurfing and skateboarding. Somehow he also found time to carve a place for himself in the pages of Vogue.
Romance led de Rosnay to the camera; he had the perfect subject after all—he was dating model and heiress Marisa Berenson. They were a perfect match, as both belonged to the same elite social circles and enjoyed a jet-set lifestyle.
Marisa Berenson in Giorgio di Sant'Angelo Flower Decals, Vogue (1968-01-01) by Arnaud de RosnayCondé Nast Archive
In 1964, Berenson (the granddaughter of Elsa Schiaparelli) introduced de Rosnay to Richard Avedon, who hired the aristocratic Frenchman as an assistant. Three years later, de Rosnay was ready to go it alone professionally, making his Vogue debut in the January 15th, 1967 issue.
Later that year, de Rosnay photographed his first major feature, “Australia, Country of Champs” for the September 15th issue. “The brains and brawn ‘down under’” were celebrated over 14 pages; Berenson makes a number of cameos, too.
In one shot she’s playfully chased by Australia’s star rugby players. This mix of reportage and fashion, plus sport, was ideal for a handsome young photographer who was also on the scene.
De Rosnay became a regular contributor to the magazine; naturally, Berenson was often his subject. The much-in-demand model was also being photographed regularly by Vogue’s mainstays Avedon and Irving Penn, who often showcased the most sophisticated fashion on her. In de Rosnay’s photos, Berenson had a more down-to-earth appeal and his images popped with athleticism and sexual frisson, energies that would greatly influence the next generation of Vogue photographers.
Leaving sun and sand behind
de Rosnay and the Vogue team headed to Switzerland for a shoot for the November 1, 1968 issue: “Ski Seasoning—Spicing up the Snow Scene.” The pictures were taken on the Rosablanche glacier; the story is icy cool and glows with vibrant primary colors, so popular during that time.
Not surprising, with de Rosnay behind the camera, the models are posed as though they could just as easily be lying at a pool or on the beach. De Rosnay even brought along a couple of inflatable rafts to help make the point.
Arguably the most iconic image to come out of the de Rosnay/Berenson collaboration appeared in the September 1, 1970 issue of Vogue for a story on a new line of bath products from Zsa Zsa Ltd. In the photo Berenson, topless and semi-submerged, is caught mid-action, cresting out of the water with her long hair dragging an enormous tail of water. The image radiates an intense feeling of excitement while retaining a modernist sense of form.
Lauren Hutton and Pilar Crespi in Oscar de la Renta Ensembles on a Vespa, Vogue (1970-12-01) by Arnaud de RosnayCondé Nast Archive
In the early 1970s, de Rosnay shifted his focus from photography to the sea, spending less time with his camera and more time on his windsurfer.
Pilar Crespi in a Midriff Shirt, Vogue (1970-12-01) by Arnaud de RosnayCondé Nast Archive
Looking for a new set of challenges, de Rosnay embarked on a series of crossings of some of the world’s most famous channels, including the Bering Strait in 1979 and the English Channel in 1981.
Also in 1981, de Rosnay found time to marry Jenna Severson, daughter of Surfer magazine founder John Severson. In 1984, de Rosnay attempted the treacherous crossing of the Taiwan Strait and was tragically lost at sea.
Model in a Pantsuit by Kenzo for J.A.P., Vogue (1971-08-15) by Arnaud de RosnayCondé Nast Archive
His life cut short, de Rosnay’s impact on photography is long lasting.
Galya Milovskaya in a Hooded Tunic and High Boots, Vogue (1969-08-01) by Arnaud de RosnayCondé Nast Archive
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