Franco Rubartelli and Veruschka

A Fashion Love Story

By Condé Nast Archive

By Laird Borrelli-Persson

Veruschka in Gold Necklace by Mimi di N., Vogue (1966-02-15) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

Sometimes the relationship between an artist and his or her muse is personal as well as professional. Irving Penn, for example, married Lisa Fonssagrives after meeting her on a shoot for Vogue.

Veruschka in a Green Tent Dress, Vogue (1967-03-15) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

Another affair of the heart that was documented on the pages of the magazine was that between the dashing Italian photographer Franco Rubartelli and the German model Veruschka (née Vera von Lehndorff) who Richard Avedon called “the most beautiful woman in the world,” (a sentiment he elaborated on—in words and pictures—over ten pages of Vogue’s May 1972 issue).

Veruschka in Giorgio di Sant'Angelo Ensemble, Vogue (1968-07-01) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

Veruschka made her debut in Vogue about a year before Rubartelli, a self-taught lensman did. At the time he was married to Françoise Rubartelli.

Veruschka in Giorgio di Sant'Angelo Ensemble, Vogue (1968-07-01) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

Soon after they split. Rubartelli met Veruschka by chance; he was at a hotel waiting for a client, when the leggy model walked in.

Veruschka in a Giorgio di Sant'Angelo Vicuna and Orlon Wrap, Vogue (1968-07-01) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

He finagled a way to meet her and that was it: “We spent the rest of that night and every successive night together for nearly nine years,” Rubartelli told Vogue. “It was love at first sight.”

Veruschka in a Feathered Bikini, Vogue (1966-05-01) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

Theirs was a jet-setting, peripatetic relationship that took them all over the globe, often with Giorgio Sant'Angelo in tow as the stylist. 

Veruschka in Sun Fashions of Hawaii, Vogue (1966-11-01) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

He was responsible for wrapping Veruschka like a mummy in a famous story photographed in Arizona’s arid Painted Desert. Veruschka’s movements were rarely constricted, though.

Veruschka in Pucci Body Paint, Vogue (1966-05-01) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

Most of the work she did with Rubartelli was on location. He captured her leaping through the waves in Brazil, on the rooftops in Italy, playing Queen Christina in France, and in nothing more than body paint.

Veruschka in the Desert, Vogue (1968-07-01) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

These color saturated images are about freedom and exploration, and many have a sort of luxe boho-vibe, sometimes bordering on exoticism.

Veruschka in Veruschka for Strega Ensemble, Vogue (1967-04-01) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

Rubartelli and Veruschka followed the first two parts of Timothy Leary’s m.o.: “Turn on, tune in, drop out.” Part of the hippie ethos was opening oneself to different cultures and belief systems—it was in 1968 that the Beatles went to India to study transcendental meditation. 

Veruschka in Eve of Rome Makeup, Vogue (1967-04-15) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

Some of what was understood as cultural appreciation then, might be considered appropriation now. 

Veruschka With Tovar-Tresses Dynel Braids Around Her Face, Vogue (1967-04-01) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

Vogue was then under Diana Vreeland’s leadership and, like the editor herself, the magazine thrilled to adventure and reveled in fantasy.  As Rubartelli has noted: “For Vreeland, everything impossible was possible.”

Veruschka and Franco Rubartelli, Vogue (1968-01-15) by Franco RubartelliCondé Nast Archive

The narratives of Veruschka and Rubartelli extended over multiple pages. They told stories of far-away places, of fabulous fashion, all heightened by the fact that they were taken through a lens of love. Though this fairy-tale romance didn’t have a happy ending, it inspired work that stands the test of time.

Veruschka with Giorgio di Sant'Angelo Pyramid, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1967-07-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in Halston, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1967-10-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in Halston, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1967-10-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in Bardley Denim Ensemble, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-01-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka Posing for Painter Genaro de Carvalho, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-01-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in Shisheido Makeup, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-01-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in a Green Dress with Jeweled Embroidery, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-04-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in a Pinstriped Shirtdress, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-04-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in a Dalmatian-Spotted Culotte-Dress, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-04-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in Blue Fabric, Vogue, Henry Clarke, 1968-04-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in a Pink Nightdress, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-04-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in Geoffrey Beene, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-06-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in an Emilio Pucci Dress, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1969-04-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in James Douglas Goodson, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-06-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in Clairol, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-05-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in Giorgio di Sant'Angelo Ensemble, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1968-07-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka, Max Brunell and Carlos Ortiz in Italy, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1969-04-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka in Gianfranco Fini Chair, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1969-09-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruscka in the Snow Wearing a Cowboy Hat, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1969-11-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Veruschka Wearing a Headdress, Vogue, Franco Rubartelli, 1970-03-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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