A Tour of Japan's Largest Fruit and Vegetable Market

Come on a journey to the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market (Ota Market) to encounter its sheer size and the attention paid to delivering quality produce by the professionals that work there.

Ota Market, the arrival point for produce from around Japan and abroad

Opened in 1989 and situated by Tokyo Bay, the Ota Market, part of the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, is one of Japan’s top fruit, vegetables, seafood, and flower markets. In terms of facility size and volume handled, it is the largest fresh produce market in the country. It also has the overwhelming share of money that changes hands, with 15.3% of all transactions across the 49 produce wholesale markets scattered throughout Japan taking place here (2019). Produce from around Japan and overseas passes through the wholesalers based at this expansive market, with its floor area of 386,426m2, before being distributed to retailers throughout the city.

The beginnings of a bustling market

The history of the market goes back to the start of the Edo Period (1603-1868). Fishermen that were brought up from the Kansai region to catch fish for the shogunate were only permitted to do business from around Nihonbashi. It was around the same time that a produce market sprung up in the area, transforming Nihonbashi into the business center of Edo (Tokyo). In 1923, the Great Kanto Earthquake flattened the area; the market was then moved further north to Kanda, providing better rail access.

Changes in logistics and a step into the modern era

The Kanda Produce Market was established in Akihabara in 1935 primarily with transporting goods by rail in mind. Lines were established into the market area, making it easier to load and offload freight cars. Transportation had changed from ship in the Edo Period to rail; later in the 20th Century, it became more common to transport produce by road and at the same time, the functions the market was expected to perform were also undergoing a transformation.

The relocation of the market to its present location took place in 1989. The Ota Market, as it became known, is in close proximity to Haneda Airport, making it convenient for air freight, and the site was the perfect location for a sprawling market and the container yards and warehouses associated with it; customers and drivers now also have very easy access via vehicle. The Sanitary Inspection Station located at the market performs daily monitoring, ensuring the safety of the food that passes through the massive complex.

Expert market guidance

Hidekazu Izumi, Senior Managing Director of Tokyo Seika Co., Ltd., a company established in 1947 shortly after the war. After joining the company in 1979, Izumi originally worked as an auctioneer. With over four decades of experience, he is an expert in everything from the history of the market to logistics, through to the latest information on fruit and vegetables — just the right person to lead a guided personal tour through the huge facility!

Wholesaling: It’s a matter of trust

There is a total of four wholesale companies that operate in the Ota Market, including Tokyo Seika, Japan’s largest wholesaler and distributor of fruit and vegetables. Izumi explains that at no point does Tokyo Seika actually buy the produce itself. “It’s the same sort of business as trading companies engage in: we receive a sales commission from the producers. In other words, its not just intermediate wholesalers and retailers, but the producers who are our customers. Trust is an indispensable part of the entire business. What we are particular about is setting the appropriate price according to the quality of the product. Pricing is inextricably linked to trust.”

Protecting fairness

Another vital role of the market is to fulfil its duty as public infrastructure. If a producer makes a request for their produce to be sold, the wholesaler cannot refuse. This has come about through the Wholesale Market Act, a law that ensures there is no discrimination and one that protects the fairness of the market and its place as a lifeline for Japanese citizenry. The auctioneers involved in sales at the market all study this law.

The market starts to buzz — auction time draws near

The Ota Market is open 24-hours a day, but its ‘personality’ changes at given times throughout that period. It is at its busiest around midnight, when the timing of produce being offloaded coincides with that of the produce that is leaving the market. Around 6AM, the familiar faces of the intermediate wholesalers and retailers start to appear; these professionals carefully go around examining the produce that has come in overnight before the bidding commences at 6:50AM. It is now 7AM: time for the muskmelon auction, perhaps the centrepiece of Tokyo Seika’s auctions today. The bell signalling the start of the auction echoes out across the floor.

Muskmelon: a ‘market staple’

“No matter how the times change, auctions of these muskmelons will continue,” remarks Izumi. “Whenever you go into a fruit shop, there it is; it’s a fruit that is a fundamental and important part of our existence. In fact, it’s no exaggeration to say it supports the market!” The precious fruit travels slowly along a conveyor belt as they are auctioned off, one box at a time.

The keen eye of the auctioneer

Using hand gestures (teyari), auctioneers determine the price of each item, one after another, looking at the amount offered by each customer. With a rhythmic, crisp voice and precise gestures, they assuredly take control of proceedings. “A voice that carries well and a discerning eye for quality — they are the key qualities of an auctioneer. Without these, the trust of producers and the intermediate wholesalers is lost. In addition, the auctioneer needs the ability to ‘see’ the whole process, from production to consumption, and be able to seize on sales opportunities,” Izumi says.

How long does it take to become a fully-fledged auctioneer? “Ten years,” Izumi states definitively. “You have certain produce that is in season just once a year; if you are here for even ten years, you only handle that fruit or vegetable ten times!” he laughs. “You inevitably get specialists emerging, such as those who appear during the year at the muskmelon or apple auctions only, for example. In fact, Tokyo Seika has a muskmelon auctioneer with 45 years under his belt!”

Orbs full of craftsmanship and pride

Muskmelons that grow big using the ‘isolation bed’ cultivation method, raised off the ground in glass greenhouses; it is said this fruit truly tests the skills of those that grow it as there are so many elements that the human hand can control that influence how it turns out. One noteworthy point about Japanese muskmelons is that since 1962, during Japan’s period of rapid economic growth, the number that is designated to individual growers has been featured on the sticker that has ‘特選’ (tokusen, premium quality) printed on it and affixed to each melon, enabling traceability to be thoroughly implemented. Prior to a similar system being implemented in other foodstuffs, communicating the confidence and pride the producer had in their melons was seen as adding value to the fruit.

The origins of Japan’s ‘luxury fruit’ culture

One aspect of Japanese culture that surprises many an overseas visitor is the presence of premium grade fruit such as the muskmelon. Perfect melons carefully nestled in their own paulownia box and sold for over 30,000 yen are a sight unique to Japan. Though it may appear like a recent trend, the origins of high-quality fruit being sold like this go back to the Edo Period. Izumi says that the custom originated out of the eating of mizugashi (‘water dessert’ — the archaic term for fruit) at the end of a meal.

The mizugashi culture that helped shape Japanese identity

“In some countries, people find it difficult to source clean drinking water and thus consume fruit to stay hydrated. In the past, it was common to hear the saying: ‘Us Japanese believe that water and safety come free!’ Admittedly, Japan does have very good quality water. More than the safety of the fruit we eat, we have often been more concerned with sweetness, aroma, and texture. The reason why mizugashi perhaps started to appear as an after-dinner dessert was that Japanese people imagined it was on a par with other refined desserts. It could be regarded as one facet of Japanese identity, one of the pillars of washoku (Japanese cuisine), which was listed as part of the World’s Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.”

From the end of the Edo Period and beginning of the Meiji Period (1868-1912), the Ginza and Nihonbashi districts of Tokyo became home to many high-end fruit stores, a tradition that still continues to this day. In these areas, close in proximity to the produce market, the long-established stores engendered a sense of security, ensuring a constant stream of customers through the doors. “The souvenir-buying and gift-giving culture in Japan is deep-rooted, so trust in stores is essential. The image of Ginza and Nihonbashi, where there are many stores selling high quality goods, also probably produced a greater synergistic effect on the image of the fruit stores. In recent years, increased media coverage has also helped to give even greater recognition to premium quality fruit,” Izumi suggests.

A commitment to flavor leads to ongoing support and trust

Those who have been coming to buy at the Ota Market for many years are all discerning customers. “Flavor” is Izumi’s simple response when asked what those who gather for the tense action on the auction floor are particular about. “Freshness and seasonality are directly related to flavor, and quality control is thorough,” he explains. An example of this is seen with mandarin oranges; every single one of them are inspected with an optical sensor. This non-destructive method measures sugar content and acidity; in addition, the condition of the skin of each fruit is checked with the human eye. Fruits are a gift from nature, and it is only natural for their taste to change from time to time; with that said, having fruit being described as ‘not delicious’ is unacceptable. “Our job is, with the producers, to use the technology available to deliver delicious fruit to our customers,” Izumi states categorically.

Attention to eco-friendliness down to the finest detail

Tokyo Seika demonstrates its strong commitment to quality even at the
distribution stage. For example, it has developed an anti-vibration
rack especially for strawberries, a fruit that is easily damaged and
one that requires appearance to be maintained. The patented rack also
has excellent breathability properties. Meanwhile,
environmentally-friendly returnable containers have been in use for
some 20 years now, replacing cardboard and Styrofoam ones. As for the
market itself, it also has its special features, such as a roof that
can be opened and closed, allowing for ventilation without the need
for electrical power. The overall attitude towards eliminating waste
is tied into the eco-friendliness that is promoted at the market.

Over 4,000 tons of fresh produce is traded at the enormous Ota Market every day. A visit to this facility so important to life in Japan to see the pros go about their work and for the chance to encounter some of the unique, fresh produce that passes through its doors is highly recommended!