Inheritance and Innovation of Huaiyang Cuisine: Zhang Xianmin

Squirrel mandarin fish by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Situated in the North China Plain, Jiangsu Province boasts a level terrain, a moist climate, abundant resources, and a profound culture. It remains one of the most affluent provinces in China. This region is home to two of the world's culinary capitals, Huai'an and Yangzhou, which are the birthplaces of China’s famed Huaiyang cuisine.

Do you know which cuisine is most often used for Chinese state banquets?

Huaiyang cuisine stands out from all others because of its fresh ingredients, delicate cooking, mild and refreshing flavor, and flawless knife work. It is a feast for the eye and the palate with exquisitely presented dishes resulting in the perfect marriage of food and art.

Braised Shredded Chicken with Ham and Dried Tofu by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

The inaugural state banquet celebrating the founding of the PRC in 1949 showcased dishes predominantly from Huaiyang cuisine, a tradition that continues to hold a significant presence even today. Crab and pork meatballs, boiled and dried bean curd, wensi tofu, and white robe shrimp are some of the renowned dishes of Huaiyang cuisine.

Zhang Xianmin by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Master Zhang Xianmin

Zhang Xianmin is one of the numerous culinary masters who have contributed to the preservation and promotion of Huaiyang cuisine. With over four decades of experience, Zhang Xianmin has earned recognition as a prominent Huaiyang cuisine master in China. He has put considerable effort into upholding and carrying on the culinary traditions of Huaiyang cuisine, blending the skills of Huaiyang cuisine with the culinary culture of Wuxi to create and promote new dishes.

Zhang Xianmin by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Opportunity and coincidence

In 1976, after he had recently finished school, Zhang Xianmin got a job at a hospital canteen in Wuxi. Initially motivated simply by the desire to earn a living, he soon became determined to transcend mediocrity. With lofty aspirations, he aimed high, desiring to excel in his profession. In 1980 he became the apprentice of the esteemed chef Pu Quanhuan, and was bestowed with the responsibility of upholding the legacy of Xibang cuisine.

Crab with black pepper rice cake by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Ten years of hard work

Zhang Xianmin mastered the traditional skills of Huaiyang cuisine from 1989 to 2002, creating and popularizing various special banquets based on Xibang cuisine. Some examples include the First Banquet of the New China, Jiangnan Boat Banquet, Taihu Boat Cuisine, and  Clay Pot Banquet. These dishes fuse the art of Huaiyang cuisine and the traits of Wuxi local cuisine. It creates a flawless harmony of color, aroma, taste, shape, utensils, nutrition, flavor and beauty.

Boiled fish balls by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Exploration and innovation

In 1995, Zhang Xianmin established his own hotel, which has not only charmed the people of Wuxi, but has also led him to become a trendsetter in the innovation and development of Xibang and Huaiyang cuisines. The hotel features white fish, silver fish, and white shrimp as the signature ingredients. These have been used to create new dishes such as Lake Tai white fish with ginger sauce, classic three-flavored white shrimp and crispy silver fish.

Braised pork bundled with straw by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Integration and development

In developing new dishes, Zhang Xianmin adheres to the traditional features of Huaiyang cuisine, which emphasizes fresh ingredients, knife skills, and visual presentation. Besides this, he has combined the history and culture of the Jiangnan region with special ingredients and inspiration from traditional cultural classics to expand Huaiyang cuisine’s offerings.

Mixed Dried Tofu with Peppery Vegetables by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Culinary concept: Health

Traditional Chinese cuisine emphasizes color, aroma, taste, utensils, and shape over dietary value and healthiness. In 2009, Zhang Xianmin proposed the approach of introducing nutrition label indicator lights. Industry associations have recognized and advocated for this approach because of the detailed nutritional information the label provides for each dish.

Drunken Crab by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Culinary concept: Art 

Zhang Xianmin focuses on the development of dishes and quality assurance. He advocates the concept of “three elements”, namely the reasonable use of ingredients, emphasis on the taste of dishes, and highlighting the art of dishes. This methodology has become widely accepted as a classic theory within the industry.

Stewed crab meat and lion's head by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Culinary concept: Preservation

Zhang Xianmin established the Wuxi Chef Union Club to promote and foster a spirit of craftsmanship. Under his guidance, many chefs strive to enhance existing dishes, invent new ones, and mentor a new generation of experts to preserve the traditions of Huaiyang cookery. He passes on the art and innovation of traditional Huaiyang cuisine, teaches the essentials of specific dishes, shares his expertise and accomplishments far and wide and promotes the craft of Huaiyang cuisine.

Zhang Xianmin by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Culinary concept: Communication

Food is a bond that can create common ground between people from diverse origins regardless of language barriers, and China utilizes this knowledge to introduce its culinary culture beyond its borders. Zhang Xianmin led a team to Denmark to host the Wuxi Fine Food Workshop tour. At this event, he presented the gastronomic quintessence of Jiangnan to the world.

Salted goose by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Relentless pursuer

Zhang Xianmin has dedicated himself to crafting dishes that not only enhance culinary culture but also contribute to people’s well-being. His efforts have played a pivotal role in spearheading the Xibang cuisine movement, which has left an indelible mark on the culinary philosophy of enthusiasts and numerous caterers in Wuxi. This shift in approach has also brought about a transformation in consumption habits.

Sautéed Shelled ShrimpsWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Crystal Shelled Shrimp

This dish was created by Zhang Xianmin for public welfare activities to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Hong Kong’s reunification with China.

Braised wheat with shrimp, crab and fish by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Shrimp, crab, and fish shaomai

Traditional Chinese shaomai is a flour-based dish often composed of dough wrappers filled with meat and steamed in a bamboo steamer. The filling is a delectable combination of shrimp, river crab, and fish.

Crispy whitebait with fruit and vegetable salad by World Federation Of Chinese Catering IndustryWorld Federation of Chinese Catering Industry

Crispy silver fish with fruit and vegetable salad

The silver fish from Lake Tai is the star of the dish. This is due to its freshness, tenderness, flavor, and nutritional value.

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