Fashion Books of the Edo Period

What is the national costume of Japan? For most people, the first word that comes to mind is kimono. Unlike the tailored and contoured shapes of Western garments, the kimono is made from textiles cut into primarily rectangular shapes that are sewn together with straight seams. Instead of the tailoring that sets apart many Western fashions, traditional Japanese garments are distinguished instead by their surface designs and the weave and other features of their textiles.

Kosode pattern books (hiinagata bon) containing numerous different designs for kosode robes served as the fashion magazines of their day. They acted as a form of visual communication between the consumers who were looking to order new kosode and the artisans who would actually make them. These monochrome woodblock printed books typically have one kosode design per page, with the garment shown from the back. The patterns are depicted in detailed line drawings supplemented with written text. The text gives additional information such as the name of the designs, suggested colors, or techniques in which such designs might be executed. Through these books, Edo period connoisseurs could access images of the newest fashions of the day.

Tōsei hiinagata Kyō no mizu was published in three volumes by the Kyoto publisher Nagata Chōbei. The designs in each of these volumes are distinct. Volume I features designs that cover the entire surface of the kosode. Volume II includes mostly designs covering the lower part of the body (known as koshidaka monyō). Volume III has designs with separate themes above and below the waist.

Tōsei Kōrin shin hiinagata natorigawa comprises of three volumes, of which Kyoto Institute, Library and Archives owns Volume I and Volume III. It is distinguished by its many Rinpa style designs inspired by the work of artist Ogata Kōrin (1658–1716), which were in vogue during the first half of the 18th century.

Hiinagata kikunoi was published in three volumes. Some other institutions have full sets, but the Kyoto Prefectural Institute, Library and Archives, owns only Volume II. Detailed information about pattern colors and textile techniques is written into the space below the sleeves. Many of these designs to be executed in yūzen dyeing, a technique that was developed in the late 17th century.

Shin hiinagata chitose sode was published in three volumes, of which Kyoto Institute, Library and Archives holds only Volume I. Most of these designs are clustered around the lower hem, reflecting the series of sumptuary laws issued by the Edo government at this time, which forbid conspicuous consumption. In addition to the usual images of the back of the robes, there are also design sketches that show only the front side of the kosode design.

There are 4 types and 7 books from the 18th to 19th centuries of the Edo period in our Hinagata collection. The design is similar in a sense that the patterns gather on the heels and hems.