The precious and unique Courtauld Bag

The purpose and origins of this exquisite bag has long puzzled scholars.

The Courtauld Metal Bag The Courtauld Metal BagThe Courtauld Institute of Art

The Courtauld Bag is one of the craft of metalwork.


It was made around 1300 for a noble woman of the court of the Ilkhanid Dynasty, who were descendants of Genghis Khan.

The Courtauld Metal BagThe Courtauld Institute of Art

The bag itself is a brass object with inlaid gold and silver. It is a supreme example of inlaid metalwork.

The Courtauld Metal Bag TopThe Courtauld Institute of Art

Lid

A courtly feast unfolds, framed by a band of inscriptions praising the owner (of the bag). 

Lid

In the centre sits an enthroned female figure, probably the ruler’s consort (khatun). Her personal attendant, wearing a bag similar to The Courtauld Bag across his chest, offers her a mirror.

Lid

Attendants in minutely patterned coats and sumptuous hats bring food and drink in luxurious vessels of the type found across Asia and the Middle East. An attendant at either end offers courtly entertainments of music and hunting.

The Courtauld Metal Bag FrontThe Courtauld Institute of Art

Front

Roundels (discs) on the bag’s body feature musicians, revellers and horsemen. 

Horseman

At the heart of the large roundels on the front and back of the bag are horsemen. On the front of the bag a horseman is spearing a lion. 

Cross-legged figures

The small roundels on the bag all enclose a cross-legged figure. Eight of the figures are playing a musical instrument and most of them also have a beaker or bottle in the background.

The background fret

One of the most striking aspects of the Courtauld bag is the background fret: an ornamental design consisting of a repeated, interlocking and symmetrical figure pattern in the form of a double-ended T.

The Courtauld Metal Bag BackThe Courtauld Institute of Art

Back

Horseman

On the back of the bag, another horseman has a falcon perched on his left wrist. 

Horseman

The decorations hanging beneath the horse’s belly may depict tassels from a bag hung on the far side of the saddle (used for carrying falconry equipment or small game), or straps for securing game to the saddle itself. 

The detail is so fine in this roundel that you can distinguish a coil of rope suspended from the horseman’s forearm and a decorative plume attached to his stirrup.

The Courtauld Metal Bag SideThe Courtauld Institute of Art

Side

Strap loops

The Courtauld bag was originally worn as a shoulder-bag, suspended by a long strap (now missing) attached to silver loops on each side.

The Courtauld Metal Bag TopThe Courtauld Institute of Art

Turning back to the servant on the lid, we also see him wearing a bag strapped over his shoulders, in the same manner that this bag would have been used. 

The Courtauld Metal Bag SideThe Courtauld Institute of Art

Intricate designs

In line with the incredible technique of the craftsmen of Mosul in Northern Iraq, this bag is filled with intricate designs featuring geometric patterns, intersecting circles, diaper designs with tiny birds or leaves, knots and small inscriptions in gold.

The Courtauld Metal Bag In Detail: The Courtauld Metal Bag, From the collection of: The Courtauld Institute of Art
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If you are intrigued by the details, watch Sussan Babaie (Reader in the Arts of Iran and Islam) look closely at ‘The Courtauld Bag'.

The Courtauld Metal Bag TopThe Courtauld Institute of Art

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