Argentina Is All About The Beef

“Beef is the most important product in the history of Argentina,” Pablo Rivero explains, the owner of the acclaimed Don Julio Parrilla. Pablo compares its brilliance to that of salmon in Norway, Alba truffles in Italy, and Ibérico ham in Spain. 

In the flatland central plains region, known as the Pampas, which is larger than Italy, France, and Spain combined, genetically superior cattle graze on green pastures in a humid and warm climate. These cows gain an average of one kilo per day, which enables them to obtain the ideal amount of fat, tenderness, and flavor in three years, while in many other places it will take six years to develop. 

“Argentina manages to obtain the ideal equilibrium between tenderness and flavor in a very short period of time. We have the highest quality in terms of volume,” Pablo says.  “Argentina’s superior quality meat and cuts differ from other countries around the world. This all has to do with our cattle, agro-climate, and topography.” 

In 2020, Don Julio received the top ranking at Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. This was the first time an Argentine restaurant, let alone a parrilla (steakhouse), received such accolades. 

Many praise Don Julio for its quality beef, wines, and hospitality. All the beef at the restaurant comes from Aberdeen Angus and Hereford cattle, which are grass-fed and ethically raised in the Pampas. During the pandemic, Don Julio opened a butcher shop where they sell all the meat they use in the restaurant so that the public could grill at home. 

“My name is Pablo Rivero. We are in Don Julio, Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina. And here we have the cuts that we use in the restaurant.” 
Before ordering, guests at the restaurants are invited to approach the grill to see each cut of meat that is available.

The skirt steak is a cut of beef that comes from the diaphragm, from the plate, inside the abdominal cavity. It is long, flat, and full of flavor. The secret to cooking entraña is a high flame for a short period of time. It’s recommended to eat it rare because when overcooked, it can become hard and chewy.

Asado is the name for barbecue in Argentina, but it shouldn’t be confused with the rib cage, another popular cut. Here, short or spare ribs are usually crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. It is thin, so it can be cooked like a steak even though it is on the bone. Butchers tend to sell it flanken style in one long thin strip, cut crosswise against the bone. 

Rib eye comes from the rib section of the cow. It is known for its fat marbling, which gives the cut a great amount of balance and flavor. This cut can be served with or without the bone. It is one of the most popular cuts.

Bife de chorizo is always a wise decision when dining out at any parrilla in Argentina. The edge is lined with a strip of fat that gives it a powerful and juicy flavor. It can be cut angosto (thin) or ancho (thick). This cut is often a benchmark to determine quality, and a good litmus test when comparing a butcher shop or steakhouse. Don’t let it be confused with chorizo, which is sausage.

Vacío comes from the lower abdominal region of the cow. It’s a strong fibrous muscle with a lot of texture and tension. It usually requires cooking for longer periods of time, and many cooks will slow roast it. Since the meat cut is not level, with some parts thinner than others, it requires constant attention to control the temperature and ensure even grilling. 

“We eat every part of the cow,” Pablo explains. “No part of the animal goes to waste.” Historically, the owners of the farms took the best cuts and leather for themselves, and they would leave the rest for the gauchos and those who worked in the fields. Over the years, the habit of eating the inner parts of the cow evolved into a cultural norm. 

Sweetbreads come from two glands -- either the thymus in the throat or the pancreas near the stomach or heart. Don Julio uses sweetbreads from the heart, and each animal only has one. First, the grillmasters slowly cook the sweetbreads on the grill over low heat for five hours. Then, they stick it in the fridge to cool. When it’s ready to serve, they put it back on the grill over high heat until browned and crispy on the outside. The result: crispy exterior and creamy inside. It’s served usually with salt and a squeeze of lemon. 

Pablo says it’s important to clean the kidneys very well. It’s sliced like a steak, and also requires a high flame for a short period of time. If it’s overcooked, it becomes very gummy and could have an unappealing flavor. 

The salchicha parrillera is similar to a chorizo except it is thinner and usually grilled in a circular wheel on the grill. Don Julio makes it with a mix of pork and beef. They season it with red pepper flakes and paprika from Cachi, a region in the northern province of Salta. 

Blood sausage, also known as black pudding, is one of Don Julio’s specialties. They make two versions, a classic blood sausage and then the morcilla criolla, which is made with walnuts, green onion, raisins, cumin, cinnamon, and nutmeg. 

Even though Don Julio is a high end steakhouse, the types of grilled meats and dishes served couldn’t be more traditional. “We make Argentine food. Argentine flavors. Argentine tradition which comes from the culture and life in the countryside,” Pablo says.