Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Leheriya in the Market
Leheriya is a resist technique unique to Rajasthan, its main centres being the cities of Jaipur and Jodhpur. It was patronised by the Rajput rulers of Rajasthan, who used Leheriya turban cloths. The craftsmen also made traditional products like saris and veils that were used during the festivals of Gangaur and Teej, heralding the coming of spring and monsoon.
From a craft primarily patronised by the local royalty and aristocracy in Rajasthan, and which catered also to ritual garments used during festivals, Leheriya has adapted to the changing market. While its ritual use continues, the craft is now done on various fabrics, such as cotton, silk and georgette, and is a part of the contemporary textile repertoire.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: A shop display in Jaipur (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
By definition, a living craft must have a market. In Jaipur's old town, markets like Johari Bazar are home to shops like this one, which sell an assortment of textiles for local and tourist consumption.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Fabrics for sale in a retail store in Jaipur (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Customers are ushered to cushions or plastic chairs, while salespeople opens various pieces to suit tastes and budgets.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya fabrics for sale (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Leheriya pieces are stored in bundles and are opened in front of customers.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya fabrics for sale (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Bundled leheriya textiles are opened for customers, to reassure about these being genuinely (made through tied and dyed resist techniques) and not printed imitations.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya fabrics for sale (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The shops here cater to all requirements, and many times, genuine Leheriya has to compete with its cheaper printed versions.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya textile (2010) by Badshah MianDastkari Haat Samiti
The more successful leheriya artisans are not limited to the local market and the shops of Johari Bazar. They cater to a variety of customers.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya textile (2010) by Badshah MianDastkari Haat Samiti
Discerning customers include textiles lovers from Japan who have a preference for handwoven fabrics and natural colours.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya textiles (2010) by Badshah MianDastkari Haat Samiti
Indian customers look for new designs that are either bold or subtle, and while still using traditional techniques, contribute to a more contemporary wardrobe.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08) by Badshah MianDastkari Haat Samiti
Sometimes experimentation produces interesting results to attract new customers.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya production (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Leheriya textiles here:
- Leheriya textiles from Rajasthan
- The Process
Text: Aloka Hiremath, Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Suleiman Merchant
Artisans: Badshah Mian and family
Ground Facilitator: Charu Verma
Curation: Ruchira Verma