Colors of the Earth

The plants more popularly used in Kumaon for dyeing were - Walnut, Kilmora roots, Kaphal (Box myrtle) tree bark, Tatri. Since the way they used some of the plants were harmful to the ecology, Avani started working to find ways of using other plants that would not be harmful to the environment, rather help in the regeneration of the same.

The process of natural dyeing requires very basic equipment. But in order to repeat the same colour, it is important to maintain the right pH, the right temperature and the right amount of dye material, each time.

Equipment from top left to bottom right:
- a digital weighing scale
- a pH meter
- a stainless steel container
- spoon
- thermometer
- a glass rod
- gloves
- measuring cups

All quantities are measured with respect to the weight of the yarn.

For the mordanting, the mordant used is 2-3% of the weight of the yarn that is to dyed. The amount of water used to dissolve will also be 2-3% of the weight of the yarn.

It is the roots of the plants and in some cases also the thicker lower stems that are cut, dried and used for dyeing purposes.

Like in the case of mordanting, the amount of dye material used will depend on the weight of the yarn. Usually the quantity of dye material used varies from 50% - 200% of the weight of the yarn to be dyed.

Woolen yarns being dyed in madder.

Madder roots and stems are ground into fine powder for ease in storing and dyeing. A wide color palette, ranging from bright orange to crimson, can be created by changing the quantity of the dye used.

Once the walnuts are ready, they break off from their green outer shells. These shells or hulls are then dried for use as dye material.

In order to use them for dyeing, the walnut hulls are soaked overnight in plain water. This releases their color. The next day they are heated on low flame for half an hour and then they is ready to be used!

Here, a small hank of woolen yarn is being dyed in the brown walnut water.

Rich, chocolaty browns from the walnut hulls!

For ease in storage and in dyeing, the walnut hulls are crushed into fine powder.

A range of lighter and darker shades of brown can be achieved from this amazing natural raw material.

Being an invasive plant specie, Eupatorium leaves are easily available all year round across the region. Here, an Avani employee and a volunteer harvest the leaves growing around the Avani campus.

After harvest, the leaves are dried in the sun and then stored for later use. They can also be powdered for ease in storing and dyeing.

For dyeing, the leaves, in the required quantity, are boiled in water. Once they start secreting their color, the yarn or cloth that is to be dyed is added to the water.

Eupatorium can be used to create quite a number of shades. From dull khakhi and bright golden yellows to brilliant greens. As a dye plant, Eupatorium is very flexible by itself and also works well with other dye materials.

Its process of usage is similar to the other dyes. The fruit is first de-seeded and dried in the sun.

The dried up myrobolan fruits.

The dried fruit is then boiled in water and once it releases its color, the yarn or cloth to be dyed is added. Here, we see a container with a hank of wool being soaked up in harda water.

By itself, harda or myrobolan produces a beige color.

But due to its high tannin content, myrobolan is more famously used to create rich blacks.

Like other natural materials, the dried harda fruits are also ground into a powder for ease storage and dyeing.

A range of blacks and greys can achieved though this raw material.

Rich dye paste made using myrobolan, is being used here for block printing.

A silk wool stole, lac dyed and handwoven at one of the many village centers of Avani.

A range of shades, from deep reds to precious purples can be obtained using Lac, by simply changing its dye content or by combining it with other natural dyes.

The story of color is an old and important one. Since the beginning of time there has been color, be it in textiles, in cosmetics, in paintings, in architecture.

Today, with the fashion industry being in such a serious need for ecological reforms, it is time to remember the past and once again get inspired by the colors of nature and innovate with it.

Avani aims to bring back the use of such natural dyes to put the story of color back into the hands of the farmer and re-link the lands, farmers and industries.