Jadau anklet with emeralds, rubies and pearls (1940/1950) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Lucknow’s jewellers have used the jaṛāū technique of jewellery-making to create elaborate jewellery sets and delicate, finely designed necklaces, earrings, rings, dastbands (bracelets), bāzūbands (arm bands) and tīkās (forehead ornamet).
Metal jantari with holes of different sizes to make gold wire of varying diameter (2023) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Making a jaṛāū piece involves creation of a gold casing according to the planned design. For this, gold is heated and then drawn through a metal jantarī with holes of different sizes so as to make gold wire of varying diameter.
The wire is cut (with a katarnī), and twisted, shaped and flattened on a khalnā, followed by trimming with a rētī. Holes are then made for embedding stones. Another craftsperson takes over the next step of setting precious/semi-precious stones and pearls in the casing.
This is done by engraving malleable gold using tools such as the bulī and gīran without heating the metal.
Mashkur Ali saheb, master jadau maker, at his workshop in Chowk (2023) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Mashkur Ali saheb (known as Babbu Bhai), a senior jaṛāū craftsperson in Chowk (the heart of old Lucknow), says that due to rising gold prices the gold casing made for jaṛāū jewellery today is much thinner.
He had started learning the craft when he was about five to seven years old. His uncles were jewellers and he got interested in the craft after looking at their jewellery catalogs. He learnt at the Chowk Sarrafa and apprenticed with Chhuttan saheb.
Around the 1960s, he worked with Chatterji & Co. in their workshop on Hewitt Road and then with Ratan Chandra Ghosh as his ustād. He has also worked for Lallu Lal Jugal Kishore jewellers.
Mashkur Ali saheb now works long hours at the workshop in his home and is assisted by his grandson who has learnt the craft from him.
Scroll down to see some jewellery made in jaṛāū technique...
Jadau brooch with rubies and pearls (1940/1950) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Jaṛāū brooch with rubies and pearls, from the 1940s
Jadau necklace and earrings with rubies and pearls (1940/1950) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Jaṛāū necklace and earrings with rubies and pearls, from the 1940s.
Jadau dastband (bracelet, now redone into a necklace) with diamonds, rubies and pearls (1920/1930) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Jaṛāū dastband (bracelet, now redone into a necklace) with diamonds, rubies and pearls, from the 1920s.
Jadau dastband (bracelet) with emeralds, rubies and pearls (1940/1950) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Jaṛāū dastband (bracelet) with emeralds, rubies and pearls, from the 1940s
These pieces, from the mid-20th century, show the aesthetic and skilled craftsmanship documented by Lucknow Bioscope, giving a peep into the city's rich history of fine jewelry making.
Ruby and emerald-studded bracelets (1910/1930) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Ruby and emerald-studded bracelets (kaṛās) from 1910-1930
This exquisite collection presents the traditional jewelry from Lucknow from the early 20th century. The karnaphul with jhumka and the standalone jhumka are adorned with rubies and pearls, reflecting the intricate craftsmanship and opulence characteristic of that era.
Necklace and earrings with rubies studded in lotus shaped pieces linked together (1910/1930) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Necklace and earrings with rubies studded in lotus shaped pieces linked together, from 1910-1930
Necklace and earrings with rubies studded in lotus shaped pieces linked together, from 1910-1930
These pieces highlight the rich heritage trying to be preserved by Lucknow Bioscope.
Curation: Noor Khan & Saman Habib
Photography: Ayan Bose, Isha Singh, Tasveer Hasan
Text, editing and translation: Saman Habib, Noor Khan, Sabiha Anwar, Isha Priya Singh, Waseem Ahmed, Stuti Mishra, Divya Joshi
