From the coffee plantation to the table
The shade-grown coffee plantations of the state of Veracruz bring a vibrant tropical ecosystem to life. Exotic plants, both endemic and introduced to this environment, are featured in a beautiful show.
Amaranth (2020-07-07) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Gastronomic traditions and scenery
Many of the trees, herbs, and flowers that live inside and around sustainable coffee plantations are edible and medicinal. Women producers use these elements in multiple ways. Ancient traditions and wisdom accompany them.
Delicacy (2020-07-08) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The izote flower
The izote flower has stood out in Mexican gastronomy since pre-Hispanic times. It's also known as a yucca flower or cuaresmeña flower, because it blooms between February and April so it is usually consumed during Lent. Although in some places, such as Veracruz, it blooms until July.
Expert cook
Mrs. Elpidia Hernández has lived for 80 years in the central zone of the state of Veracruz. With her kind smile and noble gaze, she welcomed The Flowers of the Coffee Field team to teach us how to cook the traditional dish called chicken tesmole (stew) with izote flower.
A wise crowned and happy queen (2020-07-05) by Mark Quijano, Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Tesmole or tezmole
From the Nahuatl textli, flour or corn masa dough, and mulli, mole. Tesmole is a warm broth dish or stew made with meat, vegetables and herbs, and thickened with corn masa dough or a root vegetable.
The kitchen
Mrs. Elpidia's kitchen has an open flame stove that is fueled with wood. The ingredients and her cooking utensils are laid out on a wooden table covered with a floral tablecloth, embroidered with cross stitch.
Ready to protect the delight (2020-07-03) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Ingredients
The base ingredients for preparing this Mexican dish are: a bunch of izote flowers, corn masa dough, red tomatoes, onion, garlic, serrano chilis, epazote (Mexican herb) and chicken. Tesmole is prepared in the regional cuisines of Chiapas, Coahuila, State of Mexico, Guerrero, Hidalgo, Nuevo León, San Luis Potosí, Tamaulipas and Veracruz. In each of these states, and in each kitchen, other local and favorite ingredients are introduced and combined.
Still life with izote flower (2020-07-09) by Itzel Mendoza (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Recommendation from an expert
Mrs. Elpi, as her loved ones call her, tells us all about the izote flower. In these communities, the flower is collected freely on the fields. "If you see one in your path, you take it home." And a very important consideration for the chefs: "You only boil the leaves of the flower, because the center becomes bitter."
The final dish
An hour after starting to cook, the final aroma of the guiso (stew) floods our senses. The eyes of Itzel Mendoza, floral artist and heart of The Flowers of the Coffee Field Project, open wide in amazement when the dish reaches her hands, and when she tries it, she says from the depths of her soul: "Delicious!"
Gastronomic canvas (2020-07-03) by Moisés González (photographer), Alejandra Mendoza (editor), and Rafael Muñoz-Márquez (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The Flowers of The Coffee Field Project and Mexican Gastronomy - Colectivo Rokunin 2020
Fortín de las Flores, Veracruz, México
Content and Text: Alejandra Mendoza, in collaboration with Norma Falcón
Floral Art: Itzel Mendoza
Design: Roberto González and Alejandra Mendoza
Illustrations: Mark Quijano
Photographs: Itzel Mendoza, Moisés González and Gabriela Lavalle
License: CC BY-NC-ND 4.0.
Acknowledgments: To Doña Elpidia Hernández for opening her house and her heart to us.