'Achaar Gali': A Pickle’s Story

The tradition of pickling and preserving fresh produce and meat can be traced back to as far as 2030 BCE in India’s Tigris Valley, when cucumbers were first pickled in a simple salt brine to cure and save food for long, arduous journeys, or to preserve seasonal produce for later use. As time progressed, vinegar and oil were also identified as an effective way to preserve edible items, adding their own unique flavor.

While the South Asian pickle or achaar (adapted from the Persian word Āchār which means ‘powdered or salted meats, pickles, or fruits that are preserved in salt, vinegar, honey, or syrup’) may seem like a humble condiment, it has retained its popularity and place at mealtimes for centuries.

Raw fruits and vegetables fermented with an assortment of spices and herbs such as turmeric, fennel and mustard seeds, create a spicy aroma that has tempted many mouths to try them. In fact, it is recorded by the 14th-century traveler and writer, Ibn Battuta, that unripe mangoes, ginger and pepper pods were preserved in salt and served with meals in Muhammad Bin Tughluq’s royal court in the Delhi Sultanate.

Making homemade achaar has been a regular practice for centuries in South Asia, and the practice has only recently decreased over time. However, there are still many households in Pakistan that still make their own achaar and in fact, wish to share their family recipes with the world.

Located in Pakistan’s largest city of Karachi, Hyderabad Colony was initially an area where families who migrated from Hyderabad, India, to Pakistan - during what was one of the largest migrations in the history - chose to settle and restart their businesses. Since then, Hyderabad, Deccan is known to be the hub of amazing food which cannot be found anywhere else thanks to the Delhi Sultanate’s rich influence and passion for unique recipes.

The proprietor of Chatkharay House, Masood Shah Faheem, proudly shares his family’s history, of how his father owned a restaurant and was an expert pickler in India, and how he restarted his business after migrating to Pakistan from Hyderabad, Deccan.

Masood and his team prepare their achaar in-house.

Out of eight brothers, four chose to follow in their father’s footsteps to create the traditional foods, pickles and relishes from recipes refined and curated by their father.

Their hard work paid off, and Chatkharay House became a recognized establishment where popular personalities, including politicians, writers and artists became regular clients who enjoyed the royal taste of Hyderabad. Notable historical figures such as former First Lady Nusrat Bhutto and her daughter, the first female Prime Minister of Pakistan, Mohtarma Benazir Bhutto Shaheed, were among regular customers.

The owner also fondly speaks about the customers and workers who have spent their lives at Chatkharay House from adolescence to becoming grandparents, himself included. Staying true to his Hyderabadi roots motivates Faheem to share more than just pickles and chutney.

If one ever has the chance to visit Hyderabad Colony and speak with the owners about Hyderabadi cuisine, the historical journey into the origins and making of their delicious recipes will enhance the delight of tasting its history.