Palla Fish from the Indus River in Sindh

As waves of migration took place in Sindh, the population increased and the eating habits of people changed over the centuries. However, the Indus River and surrounding fertile land ensured a steady supply of fresh produce was always available for the local population.

The most popular of all fish for which tourists come to Jamshoro from all over the world, including foreign delegates, backpackers, and local travellers is the palla - a fish which can survive in both saltwater and the freshwater of the River Indus.

According to local residents, the word 'palla' means 'bones' due to the amount of sharp bones found in it. This freshwater fish is related to the herring, known as the hilsa herring, and is popular in Pakistan, the Middle East, Bangladesh, Indonesia and India.

This nomadic fish travels from the sea to the Indus River between May and August, feeding from the silt of the river and sea, creating a uniquely inherent flavour which can’t be replicated in farmed fish, with plenty of meat, sharp bones and rich in omega three fatty acids.

The palla machi, however, is more than just a staple favourite food, it has an almost spiritual significance for Sindh, and the legend of the palla is spoken of with reverence and respect. It is told by fishermen of old that when the palla starts travelling upstream from Thatta, it is black in colour, and as it migrates toward Sindh and passes by the Zindapir shrine in Sukkur, the colour changes to a bright silver with a distinctive red spot on its head. It is believed that the fish having paid its respects to its spiritual leader changes in taste and fragrance, resulting in its unique taste.

Historically, the palla fish is prepared with special homemade spice blends, can be served in a variety of ways, including frying, roasting, and grilling and can also be made with rice and cooked into gravies.

An entire menu for palla specialities can be found at Jamshoro’s popular Al-Manzar Restaurant, established in 1979, which shares the centuries-old love for Soghat-e-Sindh (Gift of Sindh) palla fish.

One of the best spots for finding palla machli is Al-Manzar Restaurant, the spot where two canals meet at Kotri Barrage in Jamshoro, where 70-year-old Khuda Baksh has been inventing and experimenting with traditional and non-conventional recipes of the palla machli since 1979.

Owners of Al-Manzar: Khuda Baksh (right) and his son Muhammad Raza (left).

While there are other varieties of fish available such as rohu - which has fewer bones than palla and is easier to eat - people flock to Jamshoro to feast specifically on palla because of its intense, rich flavour.

The more unique palla pulao, which is a rice dish concocted of flavorful rice, palla fish and an array of spices and herbs lending to its depth of flavour.